Hand Drill or Drill Press for MU Panel?

[Henfield]

Okay, before anyone else says this, I did a search already on this subject, but I have a very specific question. I have some MU panels from Ben at Resynthesis, but I forgot to have him drill the 1/8" holes for the standoffs used to parallel mount the PCBs. I have a drill press, but it is buried against the wall in the garage, and would be difficult to get to, especially as it is currently cold in Michigan! Can I use a hand drill, either AC or 18V, for this purpose?

[j9k]

Yeah just use a nail to punch the spots you're going to drill before you drill. It will prevent the drill from wandering.

[marvkaye]

Either tool will adequately drill the holes as long as you use a sharp bit and you mark each hole's location with a center punch first to keep the tip of the bit from wandering as it starts to cut. You might want to print out a template for the hole locations and tape it to the panel using the existing component holes to insure accurate positioning. Be sure your standoffs don't interfere with your pots, switches, or jacks... you only get one shot at drilling those holes so be sure they're in the right places.

<marv>

[daverj]

If the front of the panel has paint or anodize on it, put a couple of layers of heavy packing tape over the front and drill from the back. And stop the drill as soon as it breaks through to clear away any burrs. Otherwise the burrs can spin around and scratch the face.

[wsy]

Okay, before anyone else says this, I did a search already on this subject, but I have a very specific question. I have some MU panels from Ben at Resynthesis, but I forgot to have him drill the 1/8" holes for the standoffs used to parallel mount the PCBs. I have a drill press, but it is buried against the wall in the garage, and would be difficult to get to, especially as it is currently cold in Michigan! Can I use a hand drill, either AC or 18V, for this purpose?

You could drill (and possibly get the holes in the wrong place, or mess up that
pretty finish on the front panel), or you could take the easy wayout.

Get yourself some threaded standoffs from McMaster (probably 1" long x 2-56 but
check that); these things are basically hexagonal brass rod with a tapped hole
(like the inside of a nut) all the way through. Get the size that matches the size
mounting screw you wanted to use, and get some 3/16" long mounting screws
the same size as well (i.e. if I'm right, you *probably* will be getting 2-56 x 1"
standoffs (McMaster PN http://www.mcmaster.com/#90308A115 and
2-56 x 3/16" screws http://www.mcmaster.com/#95345A012 (although
you can probably find the quantities and sizes you need at your local hardware
store or auto-parts store for similar or less, given McMaster's minimum quantities.)

Also get some super-good epoxy like JB-Weld (overnight cure) at the hardware store..

Remove all the hardware from the Re:Synthesis front panel, so it can lie flat, face
down, on your workbench.

Mark the panel on the inside with a pencil roughly where you wanted the holes to
be. Anything within 1/8" is fine.

Using coarse sandpaper (80 grit or so) abrade the back of the panel where you wanted
the holes to go, and a little way (10 mm, half an inch) around that. Likewise abrade
one end of each of the standoffs; you're probably using four so abrade four standoffs.

Using the screws you already have, thread the screws through the PCB and into
the standoffs and snug them down; the standoffs are now in the "correct", zero-stress
position.

Mix up about three or four pencil-eraser's worth of the JB-Weld epoxy, and put a
nice thick dab on each of the places you forgot to put a screw hole.

Press the PCB into place, with the standoffs submerged all the way in the gooey
JB-Weld. Put a small weight on top (say, a soup can) so the panel doesn't move
around overnight due to gremlins, cats, or vibration.

Let harden overnight. You now have four very secure mounting points for your
PCB and no mis-drilled screwholes in the front panel. Even better - your PCB
is now far more secure than a pot bracket could make it, and you will be able
to change out a bad pot in five years with no problems of matching the exact
lead spacing, etc.

- Bill

[MR-808]

Get yourself one of these. It's a brilliant little tool; every red-blooded male should have one. Punch several times. If you're using a hand drill, make sure it's variable speed, and start slow.

[BTG]

Somewhat related to this, but is one of the bigger Dremels + their 'drill press' strong enough for the occasional cutting/drilling of thin (<2.5mm) aluminum? I don't have room for a proper drill press, but a Dremel is a lot more portable.

[Paradigm X]

I like wsg's technique; that jbweld stuff is amazing, rock solid.

[Randy]

If you are only doing one panel, a hand drill is fine, but if you are planning on doing a bunch, get a drill press. I would not trust epoxy or glue as a long term solution.

I used a hand-held drill for many years to do this stuff but once I used a drill press, I never used the hand-held again. Holes are perpendicular, the bit does not wander and there is no need for a punch.

Randy

[odecahedron]

excellent thread/topic A+++

[wsy]

If you are only doing one panel, a hand drill is fine, but if you are planning on doing a bunch, get a drill press. I would not trust epoxy or glue as a long term solution.
[...]

I agree completely about the wisdom of a drill press - and a center punch, followed
by a center drill.

But I'll take exception to the epoxy not being "durable enough". If the joint is properly
prepared (and for most metals, that means sanding with coarse sandpaper and
no oil or water, then joining immediately) then epoxy is pretty much forever.

Besides - the circuit boards themselves are probably FR-4 - which is fiberglass
and epoxy. Any evil that can destroy the JB-Weld (epoxy with steel powder) will
also have destroyed the circuitboard first.

- Bill

[doobedy]

Get yourself one of these. It's a brilliant little tool; every red-blooded male should have one. Punch several times. If you're using a hand drill, make sure it's variable speed, and start slow.

I bought that on impulse a few years ago and I swear it's gotten more use than any tool I own.