Having just scored an a199 on B/S/T, I had the idea of adding a gate controlled solenoid for bumping the spring. Some of the Vermona reverbs have these, even under midi control.
Where would I start looking for ideas on how to make this a reality? I suppose a relay of some sort will be needed as solenoids probably draw a bit of current.
solenoids for smashing a spring reverb tank
this might help, with a smallish arduino
http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/SolenoidTutorial
http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/SolenoidTutorial
The Highly Liquid 'MIDI Decoders' would get you halfway there, but you'd probably still need to put a relay between them and the solenoid. There's a thread that talks about doing that here. There are a few different types on the MIDI Decoder page in their store.
I'm going to end up using one of these to make a mechanical drum machine someday. My biggest holdup has been finding decent solenoids. This eBay seller has some that look promising.
This guy used solenoids from that eBay seller, but rolled his own controller instead of using the Highly Liquid stuff. Here's more from him.
I'm going to end up using one of these to make a mechanical drum machine someday. My biggest holdup has been finding decent solenoids. This eBay seller has some that look promising.
This guy used solenoids from that eBay seller, but rolled his own controller instead of using the Highly Liquid stuff. Here's more from him.
Solenoids can be expensive (I did some shopping on DigiKey some time ago), but I did find a 5V/6mm throw solenoid for decent price on SparKFun recently. No idea if that may be able to be included in your project and circuit:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11015
I see you noted it as well, but I might as well say it for others. Given the typical current pull of solenoids I can just about guarantee the module/rack/power supply will be damaged if the solenoid is plugged directly into a CV output. When in doubt, read the datasheet!
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11015
I see you noted it as well, but I might as well say it for others. Given the typical current pull of solenoids I can just about guarantee the module/rack/power supply will be damaged if the solenoid is plugged directly into a CV output. When in doubt, read the datasheet!
Found this intro on transistors and PWM. Might be relevant here.
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Simpl ... -PWM-Puls/
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Simpl ... -PWM-Puls/
Thanks for the tips everyone.
I found this: http://www.sainsmart.com/arduino-compat ... logic.html
I think it might be a lot easier for me to adapt something like this. All it needs is 5v low triggers. So a small voltage scaling and inverting circuit should make it be able to be activated by gates/triggers from a modular.
I found this: http://www.sainsmart.com/arduino-compat ... logic.html
I think it might be a lot easier for me to adapt something like this. All it needs is 5v low triggers. So a small voltage scaling and inverting circuit should make it be able to be activated by gates/triggers from a modular.
According to Nicholas Collins "This amplifier [LM384] can also drive [...] or a low-power solenoid [...]"
I'm going to try this. As it's a tiny circuit I'll probably put it behind the panel.
The circuit is in chapter 28, page 187-189 in Handmade Electronic Music http://loliel.narod.ru/DIY.pdf
Not sure if a low power solenoid would cut it, or what counts as one?
I'm going to try this. As it's a tiny circuit I'll probably put it behind the panel.
The circuit is in chapter 28, page 187-189 in Handmade Electronic Music http://loliel.narod.ru/DIY.pdf
Not sure if a low power solenoid would cut it, or what counts as one?
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If you wanna rig up a high voltage power supply, pinball machine solenoids can be had for pretty cheap, but usually run on around 50v.
Current setup: https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/226812
Mini Performance System: http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/79031
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Mini Performance System: http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/79031
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I know a little about solenoids from working with pinball machines. They usually have their operating voltage (50VDC for pinball) on one terminal. The other terminal is grounded out by a transistor or a switch to make the slug move.
Most pinball solenoids can't handle being powered continuously, and will burn up if stuck on. If you're very careful and only use a pulse input, you could trigger a relay with the pulse, and hook the solenoid and ground to the NO contacts. Trigger goes high, contacts close, solenoid fires. Forget and feed it a DC voltage, and the solenoid might burn up. :(
A safer option might be a pop bumper driver board that's meant to power a solenoid for a very short time on a switch closure, to prevent it from burning up. I _think_ it will work at lower voltages. You might have to play with the timing capacitor value if you change voltages.
As for what solenoid, seems like one of the short throw ones that were used on pinball or video game coin doors for locking out coin drops might be good for delivering a gentle tap. They usually operate on 12VDC. If you know someone with a game, you might be able to talk them out of one, as they're not needed if the game is on free-play.
Pinball solenoids might work at 12 or 15VDC, just with a much weaker throw. Never tried it.
Sounds like a fun idea! When I get around to building my Neural Agonizer, I'll have to experiment with it.
Most pinball solenoids can't handle being powered continuously, and will burn up if stuck on. If you're very careful and only use a pulse input, you could trigger a relay with the pulse, and hook the solenoid and ground to the NO contacts. Trigger goes high, contacts close, solenoid fires. Forget and feed it a DC voltage, and the solenoid might burn up. :(
A safer option might be a pop bumper driver board that's meant to power a solenoid for a very short time on a switch closure, to prevent it from burning up. I _think_ it will work at lower voltages. You might have to play with the timing capacitor value if you change voltages.
As for what solenoid, seems like one of the short throw ones that were used on pinball or video game coin doors for locking out coin drops might be good for delivering a gentle tap. They usually operate on 12VDC. If you know someone with a game, you might be able to talk them out of one, as they're not needed if the game is on free-play.
Pinball solenoids might work at 12 or 15VDC, just with a much weaker throw. Never tried it.
Sounds like a fun idea! When I get around to building my Neural Agonizer, I'll have to experiment with it.
Last module completed: Jürgen Haible Tau Pipe Phaser
Pop bumper drive board is the best way to go because it not only includes the safety of a quick pulse, but has the driving circuit and requires (typically) 5V, 12V. And forget about buying a board, you can build one up quite easily.MR-808 wrote:I know a little about solenoids from working with pinball machines. They usually have their operating voltage (50VDC for pinball) on one terminal. The other terminal is grounded out by a transistor or a switch to make the slug move.
Most pinball solenoids can't handle being powered continuously, and will burn up if stuck on. If you're very careful and only use a pulse input, you could trigger a relay with the pulse, and hook the solenoid and ground to the NO contacts. Trigger goes high, contacts close, solenoid fires. Forget and feed it a DC voltage, and the solenoid might burn up. :(
A safer option might be a pop bumper driver board that's meant to power a solenoid for a very short time on a switch closure, to prevent it from burning up. I _think_ it will work at lower voltages. You might have to play with the timing capacitor value if you change voltages.
As for what solenoid, seems like one of the short throw ones that were used on pinball or video game coin doors for locking out coin drops might be good for delivering a gentle tap. They usually operate on 12VDC. If you know someone with a game, you might be able to talk them out of one, as they're not needed if the game is on free-play.
Pinball solenoids might work at 12 or 15VDC, just with a much weaker throw. Never tried it.
Sounds like a fun idea! When I get around to building my Neural Agonizer, I'll have to experiment with it.
Some of the older pinball machines (I have 17 of them ranging from the early 60s to 2005) ran on AC voltage exclusively and some of the solenoids actually ran at 120V. But lower voltage coils are more common such as the coin lock out coil or the type which is attached to a relay to actuate switches.
The aforementioned 50V solenoids were among the most powerful; if you are over the age of 35 or into pinball at all, think of the game Firepower or Black Knight by Williams; they really had some power to them! Prior, the 70's Gottlieb machines had AC (less powerful due to switching cycle) circuitry; later juiced up with the handy addition of a bridge rectifier (four diodes).
I'm boring people here but look here for cheap (and american made aka wound in Poughkeepsie New York!) for about $5 bucks depending on how heavy; But that's just the coil, you'll need the sleeve, brackets, pawl, spring, etc. OR... just buy this: http://pbresource.com/images/gtb-b15463.jpg Yes it's the old fashioned knocker. And it's violent as hell. But if you affix it 'near' your tank such as possible have a very small bit of contact between the bolt that mounts (and typically isolates) the tank to your cabinet, and the bracket on the knocker assembly, you'll get the job done.
Combine it with a pop bumper assembly (as long as the coil type matches from a winding / impedance perspective) and you are done.
Here is Pinball Resource's site: pbresource.com
If you really want to go old school, get yourself a stepper from an old pinball machine (typically used to count 1000's on the bonus ladder) and make yourself an analog [aka mechanical] clock divider : )
But seriously, if anybody wants to pursue this, feel free to reach out to me via PM and I can proxy part ordering; I have an account with Steve Young; he ONLY deals in money order or check but will a) ship you your first order of < $100 under the premise that you WILL pay him.
/PINBALL