[build] dual 281 boards

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drip.feed
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Post by drip.feed »

pre55ure wrote:
Navs wrote:Tidy, bkbirge :tu:

I'm glad to see I wasn't imagining things with the Greyscale panel, though - it's too small for all-16mm-Alphas, right? I went with 9mm.
Actually, for anyone else wondering- I did mine with 16mm alphas and they fit just fine.
Yep, 16mm pots fit fine.

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bkbirge
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Post by bkbirge »

Nice, that's some serious attention to detail with the shrink tubing on everything!

Modular & Dork Rock:
https://bkbirge.bandcamp.com/


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drip.feed
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Post by drip.feed »

Here is an accurate Mouser project for the 12V build of Toppo's dual 281 pcb.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/Pr ... 09c228a627

It contains everything except jack sockets - Mouser didn't seem to have a great selection of them. Please copy it into your own Mouser cart before making changes.

The caps were chosen to have a minimum lifetime of 4000 hours - our modules are gonna live forever, right?


3.5mm vertical jack sockets:

Synthcube (USA)
http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?rou ... uct_id=208

Erthenvar (USA)
http://erthenvar.com/store/jack35mmv

Thonk (UK)
http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj301bm-3-5 ... ckets-x50/
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drip.feed
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Post by drip.feed »

bkbirge wrote:Nice, that's some serious attention to detail with the shrink tubing on everything!
Gots to have me some strain relief, brother! :guinness:
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drip.feed
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Post by drip.feed »

Here a some further clarifications.

Pot lugs: the yellow boxes show which pot lug corresponds with which wire. The LED polarity is also clarified.

Image


Non-symmetrical pads: the CYC and END pads are not in the same locations on both sets of solder pads.

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flab
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Post by flab »

cheers drip.feed for spending some time to share BOM + notes, i have the pcbs , i ll start a quad version next month
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Post by logicgate »

One less project in the backlog!! :nana: :nana:


Image

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Working nicely! Phew...
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Post by Ginko »

How are you guys / gals getting on with the pot range? As in do you get a smooth change in attack / release time as you turn the pot? I had to change the parallel pot resistors to be much smaller in order to get a good response, but Toppobrillo says I must have made a mistake somewhere else. Mine seems to be working fine now anyway though I did have to replace an LED that burned out (first time that's ever happened to me!)
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drip.feed
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Post by drip.feed »

Ginko wrote:How are you guys / gals getting on with the pot range? As in do you get a smooth change in attack / release time as you turn the pot?
As usual Ginko, I haven't really played with mine yet; I have no room left in my rack! :deadbanana:

I am busy building a second, spillover rack right now. When that is ready I'll get a chance to properly try out a few modules that are sitting on my shelf.
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Post by Ginko »

drip.feed wrote:
Ginko wrote:How are you guys / gals getting on with the pot range? As in do you get a smooth change in attack / release time as you turn the pot?
As usual Ginko, I haven't really played with mine yet; I have no room left in my rack! :deadbanana:

I am busy building a second, spillover rack right now. When that is ready I'll get a chance to properly try out a few modules that are sitting on my shelf.
:lol:
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Post by Ginko »

I just got a DHL notification that my LP-1 is on the way from Italy, which means this rack plan is finally about to be complete:

Image

I am going to buy one of the Ginko Synthese case kits next week, going to 12U x 86hp :goo:
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Post by Navs »

drip.feed wrote:Yep, 16mm pots fit fine.
You call that fine? :lol:

Nice work on the notes :tu:
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Post by kssm »

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of building one of these beauties and am looking at the bom v1.0 (link from Thonk's site).
What is the purpose of the 0.1uF ceramic caps that are listed on the BOM? It also says "surface mount, install on bottom of PCB". Are they decoupling caps? There is no information that I can see in the rest of the Build Bundle about them. Anybody install these 7 ceramic 0.1 caps?
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Post by kssm »

Well that was solved quickly, oops. Upon looking closer, I see the tiny SMD pads that are filled on the bottom of the PCB. So glad I don't have to install those suckers.
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Post by Synesthesia »

ahahah the bom I am using is all over the shop with the numbers - that's fun ;)

Guys, why the 4.7K are not needed i you use banana ? :despair:
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Post by pre55ure »

Synesthesia wrote:ahahah the bom I am using is all over the shop with the numbers - that's fun ;)

Guys, why the 4.7K are not needed i you use banana ? :despair:
I think... That this was because banana output levels are typically higher than euro levels. I saw this mentioned somewhere that it was just to bring the pulse level down a bit.
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knobs

Post by existenz81 »

hi where i can find the blue buchla style knobs or make noise style knobs? and the panels as well please?
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Post by Synesthesia »

There is an upcoming group buy for the blue Rogans existenz81

Board populated, panel ready ... let's take a break.


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ehochstrasser
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Post by ehochstrasser »

What are the dimensions of these boards?

I've tried sifting through this thread and the documentation, but can't find the answer. I'm trying to cram some 258's and a little extra onto one panel and this would be a good addition.
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Post by Jop »

Dimensions are:

76x107
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Post by ehochstrasser »

Thanks Jop!

Sounds like the PCBs are Euro-friendly in all orientations.
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Post by Synesthesia »

Did anyone figured out what to do with the second row of LED with the RSFC panel + how to wire them ?
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Post by djs »

Synesthesia wrote:Did anyone figured out what to do with the second row of LED with the RSFC panel + how to wire them ?
are you referring to the quadrature leds, or something else?
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Post by Synesthesia »

djs

Not sure :)

on the Buchla panel, there is 2 LED under the trigger out . One is the same than on the GrayScale panel.... but what about the second ?
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Post by djs »

The second LED is to indicate whether the quadrature mode is "on" for that channel. What I did on mine was to use the quadrature switch to also send some voltage (i think the 10v line) to the LEDs lined up for that channel.
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