Eurorack case DIY project started -> done

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Eurorack case DIY project started -> done

Post by weedywhizz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:03 pm

Hi,

I'm about to build my own Eurorack case.

It should look like the Goikes and it will be 168hp and 15u.

I have a router which I already used for a "rebuild" of a "Hoerboard" and for several other projects. I think I know that tool very well but would like to get some tips from people already done a Eurorack case with it.

Any plans ? Any tips ?

I'll show all steps here in this forum including photos if anyone is interested.

PSU's will be from Doepfer and mounting rails too (4-5 A-100PSU2 and 10 mounting rails)


Cheers :bananaguitar:
Last edited by weedywhizz on Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:59 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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A Dingleberry Monstrosity
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Post by A Dingleberry Monstrosity » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:10 pm

heres a great DIY tip, semen makes a very solid natural wood glue.

good luck! Looking forward to seeing your progress, always love DIY cases and racks. :tu:

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Post by weedywhizz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:14 pm

Yepp, I'll post the steps.

Building a standard Doepfer-like case is not a big deal but what about the ellipse form. This is not easy work to do. So I need special tips about that kind of procedure.

A normal "radius" is no problem but I think those Goikes cases have more a ellipse form which I need to handle.

...oh...and I'm from Germany...so please forgive some grammatik faults :roll:

Status now is:

Ordered 10 mounting rails á 854mm and 5 side plains with 132,5x235,5mm from www.gie-tech.de
Those side plains will be cut through the half of the depths to get 10)

Awaiting their arrival-.

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Post by goiks » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:55 pm

i suggest making a scale profile drawing in sketchup or another program (i use a 2d cad program). start with a cross-sectional drawing of your rails and faceplates. place all your rows at the angles you'd like them (45ish degrees max) based on the plane of the faceplates, then draw your curve based on that, and the rest of the outline based on the thickness of the wood you'll be using and depth of rows you'd like. i use a bspline tool in cad to draw my curves based on several points that i want to match, and spent many hours doing this trial and error style until i learned how to get what i want.

print out your profile at full scale on a plotter, glue it on a piece of wood or metal, and make a template for your router based on that, taking time and care with hand tools to get it just right. you could also pay someone to make a template from your file.

good luck, i hope you enjoy the process as much as i do.
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Post by weedywhizz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:36 pm

Thanks a lot for those inputs.

Thats nearly the plan I have but I always stop at that router template.
Drawing the line on a piece of wood is one thing but cutting down the line with a swirly router is the main difficulty I think.

For my other projects I used a router circle
but this wouldn't give me an ellipse. So what it doesn't really need to be an ellipse. I'll try to figure out how to get it nice looking with a circle.

Letting other people do some of the steps or even paying them is no real DIY :)
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Post by Mad Dog » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:52 am

Routers are great for many things however any cutting freehand is just asking for trouble. :despair: Don't let that stop you from creating your own template. I do it all the time and it's a real life saver.

If you have access to a band saw or even a jigsaw (inexpensive and very useful), you'll be miles ahead. Using a full size drawing as mentioned above or even free hand, draw on the template the design you want. Simple use the jig saw to rough cut the template out of 1/4" 6mm hardboard and then fine tune it with sandpaper until the edge is just the way you want it. You will find it sands really easily and you can make adjustments without fear so it pays to take you time here.

Once the template is ready, trace the pattern on the wood you're going to use and cut it out with the saw making sure to stay a few mm away from the line. Next, attach the template to the wood using double stick tape or if you are sneaky, you can use clamps but remember, you can not let the template move at all or it will show when you start cutting again. Finally, use a flush cutting bit with a top mount bearing to smooth the edge.

Remember to work against the rotation of the bit for the best results. :tu:

As an alternative, you can use a guide bushing in the router base with a spiral bit to both cut and edge the piece but you will need to make multiple passes so you don't burn the wood or break the bit.. Just remember the template will need to be smaller buy the distance between the bushing and the bit.

Goiks (Nice cases BTW) uses a laser or CNC cut template (Can't remember which) for his cases which is great for production but for the DIY'er, it's a bit over kill. You will need a template however as that is the only way you can maintain control and ensure you have two pieces that match.

Another tip is to use pocket screws. You can purchase a simple Kreg Mini pocket jig for about $21 which includes the special bit. This will give you a very strong butt joint with out using dowels, biscuits or screws into end grain. It will also be hidden which is a nice touch as the screws are installed on the inside for a nice clean look.

Good luck! :party: :guinness:
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Post by negativspace » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:05 am

A Dingleberry Monstrosity wrote:heres a great DIY tip, semen makes a very solid natural wood glue.
A fine rack deserves nothing less.

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Post by dickwolf » Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:24 pm

Awesome thread; I lust for a goiks case but also want a few woodworking projects to work on this spring. Think I'll start with making a boat and watch this thread for ideas on the curved case.

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Post by weedywhizz » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:46 pm

Hello guys,

well....things are getting serious :goo:

My rails didn't arrive yet but I started cutting the templates.

I bought some wood boards from a local hardware store. The measures are as follows:

(1x) 800x 370x 13mm (A)
(2x) 800x 370x 16mm (B)

(2x) 900x 100x 13mm (C)
(1x) 600x 100x 13mm (D)

I started drilling a 30mm hole in (D) for the copy-ring of my router. This allows me to fix the router and create something like a circle for the router. The radius of the circle is 500mm.

OK...some photos....they may explain more than I can with my broken englisch :mrgreen:

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I need to cut the top of the template when the rails arrive. Then I will be able to set the correct size of the height.

Image

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Post by goiks » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:50 pm

nice job. festool rules.
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Post by jarvis » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:51 pm

Nice work, and clever jig!

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Post by goiks » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:52 pm

but, i hope since you don't have the vacuum attached to the router that you're using breathing protection!!!
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Post by weedywhizz » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:54 pm

Thank you.

And yes, I use breath protection....and yes Festool rules.

Immediately after buying this router I fell in love with it. Since then I started several projects with it. This machine is sooooo flexible :sb:

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Post by Mad Dog » Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:54 pm

And we all thought you needed our help. :doh:

Anyone who owns a Festool is way ahead of the game. I think you need to be teaching us! :hail:

For all you guys in Europe, here's you're next case maker. :tu:
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Post by weedywhizz » Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:00 pm

Mad Dog wrote:And we all thought you needed our help. :doh:

Anyone who owns a Festool is way ahead of the game. I think you need to be teaching us! :hail:

For all you guys in Europe, here's you're next case maker. :tu:
Thanks a lot man :banana:

I always try to make a plan and when I think it will be difficult I just start trying.
And the festool... it's buying one good tool instead of three low-cost tools which start to make trouble.

More pictures to come when my rails arrive...

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Post by Mad Dog » Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:20 pm

Well, keep on planning! You're off to a great start and it looks very Goiks like!! :yay:

For those of you who are not in the know about routers, the one weedywizz is using will set you back about $385. :eek:

And that's the least expensive one I can find from Festool. Of course it helps when your a bit closer to the manufacture... :tu:

Looking forward to the next set of pictures! :bacon:
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Post by Jason Brock » Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:26 pm

The hardest part for me was getting the proper rail spacing.
I recommend using a scrap piece of wood to test your rail spacing, then once it is right you can use that as a template for the real holes.

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Post by weedywhizz » Fri Apr 08, 2011 4:23 pm

Jason Brock wrote:The hardest part for me was getting the proper rail spacing.
I recommend using a scrap piece of wood to test your rail spacing, then once it is right you can use that as a template for the real holes.
I think it will be fine.

I've ordered sideplains with the correct railspacing to screw them and aling the correct space.

Another project I've done completely with the Festool router....
A table for my living room:

Image

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Post by ocd synthnerd » Fri Apr 08, 2011 5:39 pm

Holy shit. That's an amazing table.

You will be just fine.
I'm excited to see your case when you are done.

Do you have one of those festool plunge saws?
More high end tool porn please. :yay:

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Post by questionable » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:44 pm

+1 on the table.

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Post by weedywhizz » Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:14 pm

ocd synthnerd wrote:Holy shit. That's an amazing table.

You will be just fine.
I'm excited to see your case when you are done.

Do you have one of those festool plunge saws?
More high end tool porn please. :yay:
No plunge saws from Festool...but always lusting for their tools.
But they are not very affordable so I have to get the tool which gives me the most creative ideas to work with.

Hopefully the rails arrive on monday...

Oh and the table
- most hard work was painting this bastard. 7 layers of 2K boat varnish. For the case it's not a big deal. No boat varnish this time.

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Post by weedywhizz » Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:51 am

Guess what....

My rails arrived today :nana:

What i did now:

I bought another wood board and cut another circle with a radius of 500mm + 35mm. I placed this board on my template and cut a notch with a radius of 520mm. The notch is 5mm deep and gives me a precise alignment of the sideplains arrived with the rails. The notch on the template is just for testing....yeah it's just a template...

The sideplains need to be cut in the half to make two of them per piece.

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Post by tIB » Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:53 am

Looking good! :guinness:

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Post by nrdvrgr » Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:55 am

Really nice... Impressive table also... will be interesting to see the outcome!

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Post by appliancide » Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:48 am

Just posting to share in the table love. Can't wait to see the finished case.

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