Starting with a modular, have a couple of questions.

[HelloMellow]

I'm about to start with my 5U modular and have a couple of questions before i get on buying:

I'm thinking about starting out with a dotcom system 22, but only cabinett, power control, MIDI interface, cables and power supply. (is this a bad start? any other cabinets i should consider?)
I already have a Moog voyager with expansions and a Macbeth M3X for oscillators/filters.

After I've gotten that I'll be adding some filters from MOTM, I would also get some Modcan effects; a spring reverb, freq shifter and a delay.

What do you think about this? Is there any options i might consider? Would this fit and work? Please comment on this

[kindredlost]

Good choice for a power supply and cabinet - cost wise.

If MOTM 5U format is predominantly what you are interested in then maybe a standard rack cabinet would be more easily workable with the non-MU modules. The dotcom will be pre-drilled for MU width modlues, so you'll have to re-drill the runners for your MOTM and Modcan modules. Not a bad or hard thing but if there is no need for dotcom modules then it's sort of "apples-n-oranges".

I expect JLR and Dude will show up soon to give better advise.

Good plan BTW. Keep us informed about your progress.

[HelloMellow]

Well. The cabinet is my main concern since I've never build any modular before plus Im mixing modcan/motm/dotcom. Think it's weird why they just dont have the same format... It sucks What if i want to change spaces? Then I have to drill more holes etc etc. Sounds like alot of pain

[sandyb]

the dotcom cabinets are nice and the cost is reasonable.
but do make sure you figure in the shipping cost from the USA and taxes/import duty too.

a possible alternative in the EU are the cases made by moslab:
http://www.mos-lab.com/

there's some more about them and a couple of pictures in this thread:
viewtopic.php?t=28312

dotcom (and i presume moslab although i don't own one of their cases) can be drilled to take MOTM format modules (MOTM/modcan B series) no problem although, as you say, moving them around can be a pain.
there's a sticky thread about doing this here:
viewtopic.php?t=6598

you'll also want to consider the differences in power connectors between MOTM, dotcom and modcan and how you intend to distribute power in your case.
another sticky thread to read here:
viewtopic.php?t=1739
and this one might well be useful too:
viewtopic.php?t=16488

if you don't want to drill the rails of your cases too much you could mount modules using metal rails from bridechamber for MOTM format or STG for dotcom/MU format. of course you need to mount the rails (i have bridechamber ones in my dotcom cabinet for some modcan modules) although that's pretty easy. and they come in fixed lengths but that's nothing that a hacksaw can't fix if necessary!

http://bridechamber.com/Cab_Mounting.html

http://stgsoundlabs.com/products/rails_mu.htm

the other option is to go for a standard 19" rack mount solution using the rails available from dotcom and either MOTM or modcan. this would save you having to do any drilling. but you don't have the same options for cabinets (if the aesthetics of a wooden cabinet are important to you) as you otherwise would.

[HelloMellow]

Thanks alot for the answer I've been looking at the stickies you posted earlier, thats the reason why I'm not sure what to do.

I've been looking at the DIY site at synthesizers.com and I'm thinking of maybe building my own rack to save some cash.
Are there any european manufacturers that are cheap (for power supply etc)?

[bwhittington]

If you have the means to DIY your cabinet, I would highly recommend it. Importing one from the US would be quite expensive. Ordering Dotcom and MOTM rack frames/rails would be my second choice, to avoid shipping big chunks of wood across the pond.

You could also DIY the power supply stuff as well if you feel comfortable doing so, but the Dotcom power solution is really quite reasonably priced compared to other manufacturer's options.

Cheers,
Brian

[relaxing]

If you're comfortable with electrical DIY, you could go this route, using a laptop power supply: http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/anal ... SUPPLY.php


Alternately, Dotcom sells a wall-wart power supply which you could use to feed an MOTM-995 .COM to MOTM Adapter. It's lighter than a big power supply, and has the advantage of +5V available if you get a module that needs it. And you don't need to buy the additional power supply control module.

Or you could buy the Dotcom wall-wart, and replace the Dotcom connectors with MOTM connectors as you need them, per this thread: viewtopic.php?t=16488


I feel for mixed systems, you're better off with wooden rails. That way you have the freedom to arrange the modules as you wish. Drilling holes isn't hard or risky. With metal rails, it seems you're locked into one rack of Dotcom, one rack of MOTM. (Unless you want to drill metal, which is a little trickier...)

[modularland]

If you want to mix 5U formats, make your own cabinet or have a local carpenter make one for you...

It will be inexpensive and you wont have to feel the pain of dealing with slight differences in module heights and big differences in depth...

You can use the same PS for Modcan, .Com, and MOTM

[HelloMellow]

Thanks I think I'll go for the DIY cabinet

Should I go for the .com PSU or should I get something from europe maybe? How big is the difference in prices?

And what is the best substitute for modcan in europe (for effects etc)?
If there is any, is it a viable option or should I still get modcan?

[sandyb]

diy case is a good idea.

if you're comfortable with electricity then you could diy power using a suitable power one or similar supply.

but otherwise, the dotcom ones are a good way to go. i have two of them powering my 5U (some dotcom, mainly modcan) system.

the three modules you mention from modcan in your first post could all be sourced from european manufacturers i think (not 100% certain on the spring reverb). if i remember correctly COTK do a delay and freq shifter.

modcan stuff is *really* nice though and well worth getting!

[bwhittington]

The Dotcom power set up is nice because it is pretty idiot proof, with unique connectors on each part so you can't plug it in wrong.

What I did is wire my own power supply and attach leads from its rails at the wire nuts on the Dotcom wiring harness. I bought the power supply used on eBay for $20 shipped and got the wire harness used here. The total cost for all parts was $80. There used to be a nice sticky in the DIY forum that detailed exactly how to do this, but I couldn't even find the thread by searching for it a moment ago. I'd be happy to dig up the part number for something comparable to a Dotcom QPS1 if you want.

I don't think I'd go with the laptop power supply, though. They aren't exactly the same thing--switching vs. linear.

Cheers,
Brian

[JohnLRice]

I expect JLR and Dude will show up soon to give better advise.

I doubt we'd have anything 'better' to say than the accomplished and excellent kindredlost but we do love to jabber about our favorite gear!

[JohnLRice]

For power supplies and some excellent and cool modules check out what Oakley has to offer:
http://www.oakleysound.com/projects.htm

and you can buy pre-built Oakley modules from Krisp1:
http://www.krisp1.com/store/

Both are in the UK so I'm assuming shipping to Norway will be less painful than something from the states?

[JohnLRice]

the three modules you mention from modcan in your first post could all be sourced from european manufacturers i think (not 100% certain on the spring reverb). if i remember correctly COTK do a delay and freq shifter.

modcan stuff is *really* nice though and well worth getting!

Agreed!

COTK and Mos-Lab both do a Moog 905 style spring reverb:

http://www.cluboftheknobs.com/modules.html


http://www.mos-lab.com/module%20ENG.htm

[Mercutio]

the dotcom cabinets are nice and the cost is reasonable.
but do make sure you figure in the shipping cost from the USA and taxes/import duty too.

a possible alternative in the EU are the cases made by moslab:
http://www.mos-lab.com/

there's some more about them and a couple of pictures in this thread:
viewtopic.php?t=28312

dotcom (and i presume moslab although i don't own one of their cases) can be drilled to take MOTM format modules (MOTM/modcan B series) no problem although, as you say, moving them around can be a pain.
there's a sticky thread about doing this here:
viewtopic.php?t=6598

you'll also want to consider the differences in power connectors between MOTM, dotcom and modcan and how you intend to distribute power in your case.
another sticky thread to read here:
viewtopic.php?t=1739
and this one might well be useful too:
viewtopic.php?t=16488

if you don't want to drill the rails of your cases too much you could mount modules using metal rails from bridechamber for MOTM format or STG for dotcom/MU format. of course you need to mount the rails (i have bridechamber ones in my dotcom cabinet for some modcan modules) although that's pretty easy. and they come in fixed lengths but that's nothing that a hacksaw can't fix if necessary!

http://bridechamber.com/Cab_Mounting.html

http://stgsoundlabs.com/products/rails_mu.htm

the other option is to go for a standard 19" rack mount solution using the rails available from dotcom and either MOTM or modcan. this would save you having to do any drilling. but you don't have the same options for cabinets (if the aesthetics of a wooden cabinet are important to you) as you otherwise would.

Hi,
this messuge must be placed in the "sticky posts"...very usefull

[HelloMellow]

For power supplies and some excellent and cool modules check out what Oakley has to offer:
http://www.oakleysound.com/projects.htm

and you can buy pre-built Oakley modules from Krisp1:
http://www.krisp1.com/store/

Both are in the UK so I'm assuming shipping to Norway will be less painful than something from the states?

Coukd you please link me to the power supplies? :S Cant find it on the site for some reason. It'd be much easier (I guess) to buy all the basics from the UK.

I think I'll have to go for the Modcan effects though heheh

[bwhittington]

The Oakley power supplies do not have a 5v rail. This is fine if you don't buy any Dotcom or selected MOTM.

The links are:

http://oakleysound.com/psu-c.htm

http://oakleysound.com/psu.htm

These are kits. I don't see any ready-made on Krisp1's site.

Getting confused yet?

Cheers,
Brian

[HelloMellow]

Or you could buy the Dotcom wall-wart, and replace the Dotcom connectors with MOTM connectors as you need them, per this thread: viewtopic.php?t=16488

I think I'm gonna go for this solution

[HelloMellow]

The Oakley power supplies do not have a 5v rail. This is fine if you don't buy any Dotcom or selected MOTM.

The links are:

http://oakleysound.com/psu-c.htm

http://oakleysound.com/psu.htm

These are kits. I don't see any ready-made on Krisp1's site.

Getting confused yet?

Cheers,
Brian

This sounded too much of a hassle I'm going for dotcom PSU just to make it easier for myself

To be specific: Q101, Q102 AC, QPS1 Power Supply and DC Power Harnesses cables.

Am I missing something? Or can I start buying modules after this?

[krisp14u]

We don’t do a PSU with 5v on it as we don’t use 5V
There may be a PSU soon with 5V for those who chose to add some other MU manufactures to their Oakley system

The Oakley CPSU is 55GBP but as I’m out of stock it’s not showing in the store

Im sure the price is on the Oakley sound page

[sandyb]

This sounded too much of a hassle I'm going for dotcom PSU just to make it easier for myself

To be specific: Q101, Q102 AC, QPS1 Power Supply and DC Power Harnesses cables.

Am I missing something? Or can I start buying modules after this?

i'd go with the q137 over the q101/q102 combination. cheaper and does the same job.

other than that looks fine

don't forget you'll need to sort out power distribution for the non-dotcom modules you plan to buy.

[krv]

If there is any, is it a viable option or should I still get modcan?

I'm building an All European 5U with macbeth and hordijk modules and mos-lab cases.... still... Modcan is Modcan, expecially in digital modules I feel there's nothing like this... ( that's why I started a small Modcan system )

[relaxing]

The Oakley power supplies do not have a 5v rail. This is fine if you don't buy any Dotcom or selected MOTM.

The links are:

http://oakleysound.com/psu-c.htm

http://oakleysound.com/psu.htm

These are kits. I don't see any ready-made on Krisp1's site.

Getting confused yet?

Cheers,
Brian

This sounded too much of a hassle I'm going for dotcom PSU just to make it easier for myself

To be specific: Q101, Q102 AC, QPS1 Power Supply and DC Power Harnesses cables.

Am I missing something? Or can I start buying modules after this?

Just buy a QPS2 and you don't need anything else!

[bwhittington]

Just buy a QPS2 and you don't need anything else!

That is a good choice if you want to stop at eight modules. Otherwise, it isn't cost-effective in the long run.

The one other thing you will need with the Dotcom power supply is a handful of .156 MTA connectors to make the cables compatible with MOTM, Modcan, etc.

[EDIT: Updated for closed end part numbers.]

For most MOTM, you need this (4-pin):

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyc ... uvEz0RI%3d

For the couple of MOTM modules that use 5v, you need this (6-pin):

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyc ... 2bC6vPk%3d

And for Modcan, you need this (3-pin):

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyc ... VVedv9U%3d

To keep it simple, I just bought the 6-pin version and let the unused portion hang off the header. The power connections are usually on the edge of the boards, and I haven't run into a module yet that has caused a problem. You can decide that for yourself.


* * * * *


In summary, what you need to power multi-formats are:

-Dotcom power components (QPS1, Q137, and cable harness or QPS2 if you prefer. This part is dead easy to hook up.

-24 awg MTA connectors for each module you want to add from a different format. To change out the connectors, you just pull the old one off and crimp the four wires into the correct position (this info is in one of the power stickies).

-Optional: There is a hand tool to aid in crimping the wires. a tiny screwdriver will work as well, but if you are going to be doing a bunch of them, it may be worth the investment: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... KU=5270170

Each of these pages includes the manufacturer's part number. You'd probably do better cost-wise by checking a parts retailer on your side of the pond.

Cheers,
Brian

[JohnLRice]

Nice Brian!

Although for your 4 pin MOTM you got the same link as the 6 pin!

See if this one is correct:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyc ... uvEz0RI%3d

I like to use the feedthrough ones when I have something that requires two power connections on the same board (like an add-on daughter board etc) but normally I prefer the closed kind. I like getting the little caps that go on them too!