Cwejman, Doepfer, Erica, MakeNoise, Mutable Instruments, TipTop Audio, Analogue Solutions, and much more! The world’s most popular format.
Be sure to look into OFFICIAL COMPANY FORA as well.
toni_b wrote: ↑Sun Oct 24, 2021 4:02 pm
Hi skinpop!
Did you calibrate the module while connected to power?
Did you also receive a 10-16 pin power cable in the DIY kit? If so, how did you connect the cable?
Cheers
Yes you need power. Be careful with the screwdriver when adjusting the trimmers. You don't want to short anything. For peace of mind I used a piece of plastic that fit the trimmers instead of an actual screwdriver.
The power is 10-16 and can be found on the rightmost card. Maybe you confused the expansion connector in the middle of the motherboard for the power connector? Connecting power to the 16 pin header would probably destroy the module.
Last edited by skinpop on Mon Oct 25, 2021 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So I’d comfortably consider myself an intermediate solderer (SMD is the only thing I’m not confident with yet) but I’ve never built anything but full thru hole only kits (microcell, addac 306, little nerd, MST, all successful) after my dad passed. He taught me to solder and we did quite a few projects together (hifi tube amps, various ham radio projects) however he handled all the troubleshooting and sourcing where I would mostly solder and do some calibration so I’m wondering if there is that much troubleshooting required as to be above my skill level.
Basically, after studying the build documentation I’m confident I could do the build and calibration but how much and what sort of troubleshooting is realistically required?
gringostar wrote: ↑Tue Nov 23, 2021 1:25 am
Basically, after studying the build documentation I’m confident I could do the build and calibration but how much and what sort of troubleshooting is realistically required?
You shouldn't need any troubleshooting if you build it correctly and having done the stuff you listed you should be able to do that without a problem. Just don't rush it, pace yourself, and familiarize yourself with the build guide. Double check polarity on parts that need it before soldering, and orientation of IC's and such. Double check everything before applying power. Soldering is easier than unsoldering so just do it right from the get go.
If by chance troubleshooting is required there are plenty of folks here in the forums who can assist with that if you ask for help.
Wish Behringer had cloned my wife. I coulda had something less expensive.
After about 30+ successfully built euroack kits, apperantly I got my first "short" with the VC f3DB.
I do not expect a solution from this forum based on the pictures, but would be very grateful for any tips on how to troubleshoot the error.
I have been staring for hours at the module without being able to see any visual signs of overlap in the soldering. In this picture I have taken out the ICs to test if they work properly. -12 and ground pins short circuit even without ICs. Again - any troubleshooting tips will be greatly appreciated.
I find it difficult to know where the error may lie when there is no schematics to refer to.
Strezza wrote: ↑Fri Nov 26, 2021 1:59 am
After about 30+ successfully built euroack kits, apperantly I got my first "short" with the VC f3DB.
I do not expect a solution from this forum based on the pictures, but would be very grateful for any tips on how to troubleshoot the error.
I have been staring for hours at the module without being able to see any visual signs of overlap in the soldering. In this picture I have taken out the ICs to test if they work properly. -12 and ground pins short circuit even without ICs. Again - any troubleshooting tips will be greatly appreciated.
I find it difficult to know where the error may lie when there is no schematics to refer to.
IMG_0581.jpg
IMG_0580.jpg
Send Zlob an email and ask for schematics. He will provide that if you ask.
I don't see any apparent issues from your pics so far. Check the shunt and reflow the solder joints ...
Thanks for helpful suggestions. I think the light on that picture made it look like a solder short.
I've reflowed the solder joints, and can't fin any visual sign of the short.
I've made contact with Zlob, who can provide shematics - hope that could give som clues.
Thanks again.
Not enough videos! Here's a quick and dirty one with some quick and dirty techno. All sounds coming from a Pulsar-23. The synth voice is being processed by the VC F3DB.
Received a kit last week and just started looking at putting it together when I noticed I have two bags of 750 1K v3.2 boards, and not an 88 250 board. This isn't right is it? Just wanted someone to confirm before I contact Thonk or leaf through the BOM to substitute parts (if possible).
Mr_Sulcus wrote: ↑Wed Dec 29, 2021 7:29 pm
Received a kit last week and just started looking at putting it together when I noticed I have two bags of 750 1K v3.2 boards, and not an 88 250 board. This isn't right is it? Just wanted someone to confirm before I contact Thonk or leaf through the BOM to substitute parts (if possible).
It looks like a mistake. If you follow the build docs, you should have one bag for each of these sections:
88_250 BUILD DOCS
750_1k BUILD DOCS
2.8k_7k BUILD DOCS
Mixer_Dist BUILD DOCS
Top PCB and Calibration Docs
Kosmikos wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 2:59 am
It looks like a mistake. If you follow the build docs, you should have one bag for each of these sections:
88_250 BUILD DOCS
750_1k BUILD DOCS
2.8k_7k BUILD DOCS
Mixer_Dist BUILD DOCS
Top PCB and Calibration Docs
Thanks for clarifying, yeah I think it is an error but it was late so wanted a quick daftness check first. I'll see if I can swap in some new values if the layouts are the same.
Well it took me about 3 days* and I only used my solder sucker once when I didn’t double check the placement of something on an early step, but it was an easy fix. The calibration was pretty easy and there wasn’t a lot of troubleshooting beyond having to heat a few connections for alignment issues, which to be honest was the biggest pain.
*non continuous days, probably around14-16 total hours working on it over 3 days.
djd_oz wrote: ↑Sun Dec 19, 2021 4:41 am
^ Post some sounds please
Here you go. All sound sources are coming from VC F3DB, except the VCA-controlled sine wave melody that I fed into the input.
I am trying to use it more creatively as a waveshaper and drum module (which I guess is what it is intended for?). In the demo, I used different band outputs as pseudo bass drum / snare / hi-hat sound with variable delay length, crossfader to switch between different percussive sound and a delay. Frankly, this is a hard to tame module, but I have a lot of fun fiddling with it. The key is to control the gain and feedback, so that the filters can be neutral or resonant or self-oscillating.
Hey all, I commissioned a builder to put one of these together for me and am trying to determine if it is borked or not. Details as such:
The gain knob only has an incredibly subtle effect until clipping is engaged across the board or feedback is way up. Soft and hard clipping switches seem to engage in the down position; in the up position volume drops by half compared to an unprocessed signal. GFB knob has no effect until about 3 o'clock and then cuts in suddenly. Linked video illustrates this a bit.
crumb dinger wrote: ↑Thu Jan 27, 2022 6:11 pm
Hey all, I commissioned a builder to put one of these together for me and am trying to determine if it is borked or not. Details as such:
The gain knob only has an incredibly subtle effect until clipping is engaged across the board or feedback is way up. Soft and hard clipping switches seem to engage in the down position; in the up position volume drops by half compared to an unprocessed signal. GFB knob has no effect until about 3 o'clock and then cuts in suddenly. Linked video illustrates this a bit.
Thanks for any insight!
Sounds like the gain isn't calibrated properly. The gain knob should work as an amplifier for input signal. Soft and hard clipping switches are engaged on the up position. It is normal to have volume drop when those are turned on.
Gain Knob shouldn't make the filters self-oscillating when in full CW, feedback full CCW, gain feedback off (i.e. it should work like a normal filter bank). It is normal to have signal hotter than 10vpp when gain is full CW, say 19vpp, when it is full CCW, I think it is around 6-7vpp.
The Gain Feedback should kicks in high gain setting only. You should get audio beating gradually turning to LFO-range beating when turning the gain feedback knob in high gain setting. It seems the gain is too low, so you are getting the early stage of gain feedback only as gain feedback turned full CW.
or it might be something wrong with the solder work...
Wavtekt wrote: ↑Thu Jan 27, 2022 7:14 pm
Sounds like the gain isn't calibrated properly. The gain knob should work as an amplifier for input signal. Soft and hard clipping switches are engaged on the up position. It is normal to have volume drop when those are turned on.
Gain Knob shouldn't make the filters self-oscillating when in full CW, feedback full CCW, gain feedback off (i.e. it should work like a normal filter bank). It is normal to have signal hotter than 10vpp when gain is full CW, say 19vpp, when it is full CCW, I think it is around 6-7vpp.
The Gain Feedback should kicks in high gain setting only. You should get audio beating gradually turning to LFO-range beating when turning the gain feedback knob in high gain setting. It seems the gain is too low, so you are getting the early stage of gain feedback only as gain feedback turned full CW.
or it might be something wrong with the solder work...
Thank you for the response! I may try calibrating gain myself and seeing how it goes.
Happy to hear that!