Jürgen Haible Krautrock phaser BUILD THREAD

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donaldharper
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Post by donaldharper »

Good shout, but no, I've been testing this with the bulbs/ldrs covered

I had a chance to take another look and I found these issues, which might explain why my volume is low

When using the input socket, the bypass knocks out all sound completely

Weirdly, the Left output works as an input also. This has a slightly louder sound than the input, and the bypass works on it (although the LED does not come on). The bypass is way, way louder than the non-bypassed volume

The modulation pot doesn't appear to do anything either, although that might just be inaudible due to the low volume

The input/stereo jacks are definitely in the right places and I've checked the board for bridged solder and wrong component values. Now I'm stumped. Any ideas what might be causing this? Perhaps a damaged IC?

Thanks in advance!
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LED-man
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Post by LED-man »

Krautrock in external case with 18V Ac psu.
Manual Mode is disabled.
Image

Image
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echoplex
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Post by echoplex »

LED-man wrote:Krautrock in external case with 18V Ac psu.
Manual Mode is disabled.
Image

Image
looks amazing - as I told you .. looking forward for it ;)

cheers :guinness:

F.
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LED-man
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Post by LED-man »

here is a picture about my solution for the "lamp caps"
i used cable ducts/ wire way and fixed it with hot glue.

more about this and other krautrock builds here:
https://www.dsl-man.de/display/MAIN/Jue ... er+in+MOTM


Image
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donaldharper
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Post by donaldharper »

Hi,

So I replaced some parts and the previous issues I had have now been rectified. And it sounds great too!

I do however need some help with three outstanding things, if anyone can share their wisdom on any of the below I'd much appreciate it!

1) The panel-mounted lamp isn't working. I've swapped around the bulbs, so it's definitely not that. This was working before I swapped parts around, so it's a bit confusing. Any suggestions?

2) I've added a mod that allows you to switch between two capacitor values (1uf and 10uf) to give two different ranges for the LFO speed. This works, but when switched to 1uf it's not as fast as I'd expect it to be; should I compensate for this with a different value?

3) When in bypass mode, the LED isn't working. Something I can certainly live without, but just in case it's something straightforward I thought I'd ask

Thank you in advance!
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

I'm trying it this way.
A rubber ring to press the LDR's to the lamp.
A piece of race tube to cover the LDR's and lamp.
A piece of normal bicycle tube to cover the whole.Image
Image
Image
donaldharper
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Post by donaldharper »

donaldharper wrote:Hi,

So I replaced some parts and the previous issues I had have now been rectified. And it sounds great too!

I do however need some help with three outstanding things, if anyone can share their wisdom on any of the below I'd much appreciate it!

1) The panel-mounted lamp isn't working. I've swapped around the bulbs, so it's definitely not that. This was working before I swapped parts around, so it's a bit confusing. Any suggestions?

2) I've added a mod that allows you to switch between two capacitor values (1uf and 10uf) to give two different ranges for the LFO speed. This works, but when switched to 1uf it's not as fast as I'd expect it to be; should I compensate for this with a different value?

3) When in bypass mode, the LED isn't working. Something I can certainly live without, but just in case it's something straightforward I thought I'd ask

Thank you in advance!
Got the LFO rate issues sorted, just needed some minor trimmer adjustment.

However, is anyone please able to help me with the panel lamp problem?
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LED-man
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Post by LED-man »

Please Check the frontpanel lamp function with a powersupply or battery,
Or rectifier Test.
Check the Transistor orientation too.
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individuomandroide
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Post by individuomandroide »

Good day everyone. So regarding the smd capacitors how do they go?

Newbie questions i know :)
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

individuomandroide wrote:Good day everyone. So regarding the smd capacitors how do they go?

Newbie questions i know :)
They go as shown in the red ovals. I just noticed I forgot the one in the yellow circle.

Picture didn't upload for some reason (?)
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

pulsepsycle wrote:
individuomandroide wrote:Good day everyone. So regarding the smd capacitors how do they go?

Newbie questions i know :)
They go as shown in the red ovals. I just noticed I forgot the one in the yellow circle.

Picture didn't upload for some reason (?)
Image
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Nordcore
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Post by Nordcore »

The SMD caps are not needed for the recommended uA741 and LM1458 OP amps.

They are still a good training for getting used to SMD soldering. Solder them *before* you put in the sockets.
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alamandra
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Post by alamandra »

I'm a bit confused about this. I've seen mention of one of these panelled up in 5u format. Then I see mention of 15v. I'm not myself a diyer, but, trying to find out if it's worth getting someone who is to build me one up.

Now I saw pulsecycles facebook demoing one used with some eurorack modules. So this gave me some hope. It's primarily eurorack I'd use it with. It seemed to have 3 inputs on the front, gave me the impression you could tap into the different stages. Please correct me where I might be wrong. Also I'm intrigued on how much money people ended up spending on gathering up all the parts needed.
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

alamandra wrote:I'm a bit confused about this. I've seen mention of one of these panelled up in 5u format. Then I see mention of 15v. I'm not myself a diyer, but, trying to find out if it's worth getting someone who is to build me one up.

Now I saw pulsecycles facebook demoing one used with some eurorack modules. So this gave me some hope. It's primarily eurorack I'd use it with. It seemed to have 3 inputs on the front, gave me the impression you could tap into the different stages. Please correct me where I might be wrong. Also I'm intrigued on how much money people ended up spending on gathering up all the parts needed.
I didn't build it as an Eurorack or 5u format. It's a standalone effect box. I've build it for use with both 1/4" and 1/8" jacks. On the bottom row only the right jack is for input the two left ones are outputs. Here is a picture.Image I can't recall how much money I spend on this project.
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medbot
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Post by medbot »

I thought the labels were some kind of back lit red tinted cutouts at first and was mega-impressed. Now I'm just normal impressed.
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

medbot wrote:I thought the labels were some kind of back lit red tinted cutouts at first and was mega-impressed. Now I'm just normal impressed.
Now that would be very nice indeed!!!
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PWM
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Post by PWM »

alamandra wrote:I'm a bit confused about this. I've seen mention of one of these panelled up in 5u format. Then I see mention of 15v. I'm not myself a diyer, but, trying to find out if it's worth getting someone who is to build me one up.

Now I saw pulsecycles facebook demoing one used with some eurorack modules. So this gave me some hope. It's primarily eurorack I'd use it with. It seemed to have 3 inputs on the front, gave me the impression you could tap into the different stages. Please correct me where I might be wrong. Also I'm intrigued on how much money people ended up spending on gathering up all the parts needed.

I'm building mine for eurorack. Your rack has to be deep though...
It cost me €150,- all together. (Panel included)

Thonk has a great kit with all the lamps and ldr's in it.
If you decide to build one, I have a eurorack panel design.
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alamandra
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Post by alamandra »

pulsepsycle wrote:
alamandra wrote:I'm a bit confused about this. I've seen mention of one of these panelled up in 5u format. Then I see mention of 15v. I'm not myself a diyer, but, trying to find out if it's worth getting someone who is to build me one up.

Now I saw pulsecycles facebook demoing one used with some eurorack modules. So this gave me some hope. It's primarily eurorack I'd use it with. It seemed to have 3 inputs on the front, gave me the impression you could tap into the different stages. Please correct me where I might be wrong. Also I'm intrigued on how much money people ended up spending on gathering up all the parts needed.
I didn't build it as an Eurorack or 5u format. It's a standalone effect box. I've build it for use with both 1/4" and 1/8" jacks. On the bottom row only the right jack is for input the two left ones are outputs. Here is a picture.Image I can't recall how much money I spend on this project.
Oh those two leftmost jacks are outputs doh at me lol, just assumed the outputs were out of shot like in the back. Does it come out at modular levels? or is it end of chain then going into audio interface/mixer?
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alamandra
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Post by alamandra »

PWM wrote:

I'm building mine for eurorack. Your rack has to be deep though...
It cost me €150,- all together. (Panel included)

Thonk has a great kit with all the lamps and ldr's in it.
If you decide to build one, I have a eurorack panel design.
Oh I wouldn't rack it up, it mentions heat and such so i thought id just remove that plus the deepness could be an issue. It was the thonk kit that started me looking into it, tangerine dream and phaser got mentioned so that was me like :sb: 150 euro is less than i thought. Oh p.s thanks to all for the info.
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PWM
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Post by PWM »

Because I'm using the PSU that's already in my modular and got rid of the 'on' lamp, there won't be much heat generated.


Al so, I have a fairly deep case. :)
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sixty_n
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Post by sixty_n »

@pulsepsycle how useful is having the stage switch out front on a rotary? I was thinking of picking the best 2 and using a DPDT to switch between them
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fragletrollet
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Post by fragletrollet »

Yeah I`d love a link to the switch used!
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PWM
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Post by PWM »

Instead of using a rotary switch you can wire a DPDT switch up like this:

[video][/video]
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pulsepsycle
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Post by pulsepsycle »

sixty_n wrote:@pulsepsycle how useful is having the stage switch out front on a rotary? I was thinking of picking the best 2 and using a DPDT to switch between them
It's just a matter of taste I guess. I like rotaries. Besides I had space enough on my box. I also wanted all inputs and outputs on front for easy access. PWM's post shows how to use a DPDT which is quit easy too.
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PWM
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Post by PWM »

I like rotaries better as well, they're just less real estate-friendly..
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