CS-80 filter v2.3 for Euro & 5U

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:15 pm

As usual, MW not telling me about posts here.

D3 and D4 are not on v2.3, I will update the doc.

R65 is in fact 68K, I will also update this in the doc.

R35 and R40 are 100K 1%. These discrepancies are from rewriting the doc from v2.2

The SMT caps are for when the voltage regulators are used. I recommend them, though things should work fine without them.

Crow
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williamcarthief · Post by **williamcarthief** » Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:37 pm

That makes sense. Thanks for the response, oldcrow.

GryphonP3 · Post by **GryphonP3** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 3:25 pm

Any vague estimate when panels will be ready? My board is all stuffed and ready to go. I made a list of all discrepencies from the BOM vs the silkscreen which I can post or pm you later, if you would be interested. Cheers!

ZZ Ardoz · Post by **ZZ Ardoz** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 3:52 pm

GryphonP3 wrote:Any vague estimate when panels will be ready? My board is all stuffed and ready to go. I made a list of all discrepencies from the BOM vs the silkscreen which I can post or pm you later, if you would be interested. Cheers!

Post that here please! Was it a lot? I'm just about to order, so that would be extremely helpful

GryphonP3 · Post by **GryphonP3** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 5:35 pm

ZZ Ardoz wrote:
GryphonP3 wrote:Any vague estimate when panels will be ready? My board is all stuffed and ready to go. I made a list of all discrepencies from the BOM vs the silkscreen which I can post or pm you later, if you would be interested. Cheers!
Post that here please! Was it a lot? I'm just about to order, so that would be extremely helpful

Its not a lot. Only a few parts that arent mentioned on the bom, which have already been mentioned in the past few posts. Other than that, a few quantities are wrong on common parts like 100k resistors and an extra 68k resistor, and some labels are incorrect. I have it written down at home with my PCB. I can post it when I am back.

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:23 pm

Got my panels shipped confirmation. It is by UPS, so I expect them here on Wednesday or Thursday. Panels will be packed over the weekend and shipped Monday (21st) and Tuesday (22nd). Thanks for being patient!

Crow
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DvStcH · Post by **DvStcH** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:37 am

This is exciting stuff

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Wed Nov 16, 2016 10:48 pm

Fresh batch of boards has arrived!

I will wait to update inventory as I expect panels tomorrow. I will add a PCB set + panels order option at that time.

--Crow
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oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:34 am

Panels arrived today! (Friday, 11/18) I will be preparing the initial shipments over the weekend and shipping Monday/Tuesday. Turkeyday activities will take up my 11/23 to 11/27 set of days as I have to host a dinner, attend a dinner, etc. --Crow

Dogma · Post by **Dogma** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 5:22 am

Would dear soul post a mouser cart of this please?

yan6 · Post by **yan6** » Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:29 am

Did anyone receive pcb's yet, i havent seen anything yet

williamcarthief · Post by **williamcarthief** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 12:27 am

Crow,

If I'm reading your post at the top of this page correctly, it sounds like the two 10uf smt caps aren't necessary though they are recommended. What voltage rating do they need to be? I can't seem to find a 10uf 0805 50v. It looks like the highest voltage rating for a 10uf 0805 that mouser has is 35v. Would that be sufficient? Should I just not worry about adding them?

The panels look awesome by the way. Thanks for keeping us updated.

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 12:39 am

I use 10uF/25v ones myself. --Crow

williamcarthief wrote:Crow,

If I'm reading your post at the top of this page correctly, it sounds like the two 10uf smt caps aren't necessary though they are recommended. What voltage rating do they need to be? I can't seem to find a 10uf 0805 50v. It looks like the highest voltage rating for a 10uf 0805 that mouser has is 35v. Would that be sufficient? Should I just not worry about adding them?

The panels look awesome by the way. Thanks for keeping us updated.

Akitamaru · Post by **Akitamaru** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 3:17 am

I see pcb has connectors from header rows and also few of pot jumpers with three pin connectors on main pcb. I am trying to get the idea of how the assembly goes. Do you need jumpers for all pot connectors between the two boards and also the pin headers? I am talking about the parts like jp12 and jp15. These all need to be connected between pcbs?

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:20 am

There are a number of locations that use 3-pin headers and pins to mate the boards together. I install the socket headers on the host board and the pin headers on the filter board myself. The 4-pin socket headers are easier to find even though only 3 pins are used. I use the 6-pin "Arduino" socket headers because they are plentiful and cheap.

This all stems from the filter board originally being made for 5U/MU configurations. The Euro version came later.

Akitamaru wrote:I see pcb has connectors from header rows and also few of pot jumpers with three pin connectors on main pcb. I am trying to get the idea of how the assembly goes. Do you need jumpers for all pot connectors between the two boards and also the pin headers? I am talking about the parts like jp12 and jp15. These all need to be connected between pcbs?

Akitamaru · Post by **Akitamaru** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 10:51 am

I see pin header at top of first board has all holes filled but sockets for it on the other board has only some pins. Is this correct?

oldcrow wrote:There are a number of locations that use 3-pin headers and pins to mate the boards together. I install the socket headers on the host board and the pin headers on the filter board myself. The 4-pin socket headers are easier to find even though only 3 pins are used. I use the 6-pin "Arduino" socket headers because they are plentiful and cheap.

This all stems from the filter board originally being made for 5U/MU configurations. The Euro version came later.

Akitamaru wrote:I see pcb has connectors from header rows and also few of pot jumpers with three pin connectors on main pcb. I am trying to get the idea of how the assembly goes. Do you need jumpers for all pot connectors between the two boards and also the pin headers? I am talking about the parts like jp12 and jp15. These all need to be connected between pcbs?

GryphonP3 · Post by **GryphonP3** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:07 pm

oldcrow wrote:There are a number of locations that use 3-pin headers and pins to mate the boards together. I install the socket headers on the host board and the pin headers on the filter board myself. The 4-pin socket headers are easier to find even though only 3 pins are used. I use the 6-pin "Arduino" socket headers because they are plentiful and cheap.

This all stems from the filter board originally being made for 5U/MU configurations. The Euro version came later.

Akitamaru wrote:I see pcb has connectors from header rows and also few of pot jumpers with three pin connectors on main pcb. I am trying to get the idea of how the assembly goes. Do you need jumpers for all pot connectors between the two boards and also the pin headers? I am talking about the parts like jp12 and jp15. These all need to be connected between pcbs?

Hmmm. Looking at these pictures I am also wondering if I have my headers done properly. I did all of the pins and sockets on the header spaces and crow's pics look like he's left some out. I spaced and thought I had 180pf caps in stock but did not, so I haven't powered mine on and tested it yet. Do my headers look alright Old Crow?

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:30 pm

I just used a single-row socket header I had on hand for that. You can use any of 1x13, 2x13, 1x12 or 2x12 if you have one in a parts bin. I had a 1x12 handy, so it got used. The dual rows are pinned together as I like redundancy in mechanical connections, but in this case a single row is fine. In the case of using a 1x12 or 2x12 just make sure to align it as shown. There is a tickmark on the board for this, by the way.

Akitamaru wrote:I see pin header at top of first board has all holes filled but sockets for it on the other board has only some pins. Is this correct?

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:35 pm

GryphonP3 wrote:Hmmm. Looking at these pictures I am also wondering if I have my headers done properly. I did all of the pins and sockets on the header spaces and crow's pics look like he's left some out. I spaced and thought I had 180pf caps in stock but did not, so I haven't powered mine on and tested it yet. Do my headers look alright Old Crow?

This looks correct to me! Make sure you use jumper blocks to close A to C and B to D on JP33. --Crow

GryphonP3 · Post by **GryphonP3** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 10:27 pm

oldcrow wrote:
GryphonP3 wrote:Hmmm. Looking at these pictures I am also wondering if I have my headers done properly. I did all of the pins and sockets on the header spaces and crow's pics look like he's left some out. I spaced and thought I had 180pf caps in stock but did not, so I haven't powered mine on and tested it yet. Do my headers look alright Old Crow?
This looks correct to me! Make sure you use jumper blocks to close A to C and B to D on JP33. --Crow

Got it! DAMN, Crow!! This filter sounds incredible!!! Used 150pf caps instead of 180pf, everything is working beautifully. I am thoroughly impressed. Sounds so great for formant style sounds with FM and bandpass out, the low pass is meaty and rich, high pass has tons of character without sucking the life out of the sound like many HPFs do, and bandpass is extremely well balanced. The VCA is superb - can really thump the transients, and sounds excellent decaying. This is the most impressed I've been with a DIY filter in a while.. Wow! Might have to get another. The only thing I wish is CV on each HP & LP cutoff. But really, great job man

GryphonP3 · Post by **GryphonP3** » Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:29 pm

Made some audio if anyone wants to hear. Source is a stagnant saw wave from a Rubicon with no FM or modulation throughout. First chunk is exploring the LPF output in LP/HP mode with modulation, FM etc with resonance and tweaking settings in LPF mode. Second bit is LPF sweeps in HP/LP mode, from non-resonant, then increasing resonance each pass through, them FM'd at full resonance on the final sweep. Then it goes through a series of modulated exploration of the BP output in HP/LP mode, and continues to do sweeps of BPF in HP/LP mode. I then switch to Split mode, and do a series of sweeps in BPF and LPF mode, followed by thick LPF sounds in split mode, with a looping envelope, and varying modulation/resonance (DAMN that thing kicks!) followed by the same thing with the BP output in Split mode. Finally I end with a full exploration of the HPF output in Split mode. Quick and dirty, can do a real demo later, but hey, some sounds to get y'all inspired!

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Fri Dec 02, 2016 3:26 am

Heh, thanks!

It is my second-favorite filter after JH's work of art that is the discrete OTA 4-pole low pass design for the MOTM-440 that lives on as the E440.

Of course my CS80 filter started 16 years ago as the design that became the MOTM-480 but when the CA3280 dual OTA was discontinued I had to redesign the circuit using the V2164. I should have done that much earlier as the mkII 2164 design is WAAAAY better without losing any of the high pass phase-shift effects that define the CS80 filter sound.

Folks ask me why the inverting VCA, 1) I had two spare 2164 cells so the "Irwin" VCA was the obvious choice, and 2) an inverting amplifier is useful for the multi-tap filters as you can route a signal back to an input inverted to change the pass-band in interesting ways. Can do some band-stop things as well.

I also would like separate control of the filter CVs and resonances. Perhaps that will be mark III.

Crow
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GryphonP3 wrote:Got it! DAMN, Crow!! This filter sounds incredible!!! Used 150pf caps instead of 180pf, everything is working beautifully. I am thoroughly impressed. Sounds so great for formant style sounds with FM and bandpass out, the low pass is meaty and rich, high pass has tons of character without sucking the life out of the sound like many HPFs do, and bandpass is extremely well balanced. The VCA is superb - can really thump the transients, and sounds excellent decaying. This is the most impressed I've been with a DIY filter in a while.. Wow! Might have to get another. The only thing I wish is CV on each HP & LP cutoff. But really, great job man

oldcrow · Post by **oldcrow** » Sat Dec 03, 2016 3:09 am

For those interested I have more board sets and some board/panel combos up on the ordering site. --Crow

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Sugarfree · Post by **Sugarfree** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 1:43 am

Oldcrow, do you expect to make any more pcb's in 5U/MU?
Or a kit? Or a fully assembled MU module?
I would gladly order 3.

williamcarthief · Post by **williamcarthief** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:10 pm

Finally got it all assembled. The silver panel is beautiful. The vca seems to be working fine. SVF1 appears to be functioning well also, and sounding great. However SVF2 is extremely quiet. Unusable quiet. Well I think it's SVF2. HP2, BP2, and LP2 are all very, very quiet, no matter how I configure inputs and mode switch and SVF2 knobs.

First off, any ideas on where I should start trying to figure out what's wrong with the quiet outputs from HP2, BP2, and LP2?

Secondly, I could use help understanding what's supposed to be going on with HPLP and Split mode switch, and with the IN3(SPLIT) to SVF2.

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CS-80 filter v2.3 for Euro & 5U