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Oh wow - I'm going to keep track of this. How are the internal dimensions? Reasonably deep? I have a couple of deep modules, but this would be a cool way to travel with modular. Looking forward to seeing this completed!
They had some end pieces made up, the rails attach to them and then the end piece screws into the case. Basically just a couple of flanges, should be simple to make something like that.
Work pretty well, you might be able to see from the pictures.
I've made a couple of cases out of similar cases like this one; the brackets really help to keep the spacing between them in check, it's might be tricky to drill holes perfectly securing a 128.5mm distance between the rails... it's doable but tricky with these plastic cases.. they also add more flexibility to where you can mount them firmly to your case. Either you drill a hole and bolt it straight to the case, but in my case I wanted to keep the cases waterproof and pressurized when flying so I used a industrial grade glue gun that even sticks to teflon! There's also a product by Pattex that works in a similar fashion..
One thing that might be worth taking into consideration is to mount the rails onto brackets that absorbs any impact on the outside of the case like the Gorilla Box cases..
I ended up going with 104hp Z-Rails that I cut down to 96hp, and retapped.
The rails are mounted on a piece of aluminum angle iron, and self tapping screws hold the angle iron in the case.
I only have a dremel and a drill, so this took about six hours, but I'm very happy with the result!
The next step is to get some longer rod for the hinges to make a handle for easy lid removal.
Looks great! Is there any reason why you didn't make the rails longer to extend all the way to the sides ? It seems like you would have around 16hp more space....
I ask because I am considering this project myself .
Also, did you use the dremel to cut the rails length down ?
How do you cut the rails so they are sill perfectly square on the ends?
That part(along with re-tapping) seems it would be the hardest part.
milkyjoe wrote:Looks great! Is there any reason why you didn't make the rails longer to extend all the way to the sides ? It seems like you would have around 16hp more space....
I ask because I am considering this project myself .
Also, did you use the dremel to cut the rails length down ?
How do you cut the rails so they are sill perfectly square on the ends?
That part(along with re-tapping) seems it would be the hardest part.
I cut 8 hp off each of the rails. At 104hp they were wider than the case. The inside wall of the case isn't perpendicular to the rails, it angles slightly in one part, so the angle iron was necessary to give me a perpendicular mounting surface. I don't think you could squeeze any more than 1 or 2 more hp out of this case.
I did use the dremel to cut the rails. I clamped them in a makeshift vice, and used a flex shaft on the dremel. I just took my time, and it came out near perfect. Tapping was easy. I just grabbed a m4-.7 tap and rethreaded the hole, no drilling necessary. I didn't even use cuttting fluid.
I think I am going to go this route for making my next case. I have a dremel and a drill, do y'all suggest z rails or is there another source you used for those vector rails? Also, can you explain the 3/4 aluminum angle, did you need to modify it at all when mounting? Gunna go to the Home Depot down the street today and get everything I need minus rails!
rayrayatx wrote:I think I am going to go this route for making my next case. I have a dremel and a drill, do y'all suggest z rails or is there another source you used for those vector rails? Also, can you explain the 3/4 aluminum angle, did you need to modify it at all when mounting? Gunna go to the Home Depot down the street today and get everything I need minus rails!
since you'll have to cut down the rails, you can get vector rails pretty cheap through mouser or digikey. i used two TS209 rails.
i had to cut off a bit of the vertical sides of the aluminum angle to fit it into the case. instead of a dremel, i found flat cutters were pretty useful to cut the aluminum angle- had to wiggle the flat cutters to get it to go through, but doing so helped bits of aluminum kind of tear off.
i'm still on the lookout for removable pins to make lid removal easier.
heh funny to see this case..when i was starting out thats exactly what i did went to Home Depot, got screws, side screws for rails wood etc, also looked at those utility case and at this one in particular. Didn't go for it because I thought it was super bulky.
These Rigid cases are a hole nuther level of reatarded. They are some super dense industrial plastic. A lot like the stuff plastic warehouse pallets are made of.
I seriously waffled for a day over getting the Rigid case at the Home Depot or the Pelican. I went with Pelican because I need a smaller case not a larger case right now. But when I need another 6RU...
I do think the lid can accommodate modules if you counter sink the rails in the main section so that the knobs dont smash each other.
I'd plan to use it that way. At least to have some Sound Machines or Synthwerks type controller stuff in there.
