Plumbutter 2

[Sidiblue]

Thank you!
What you can't see in the picture or you can guess. A norns and an op1f + oto bam and bim. The whole thing goes into the TX6. The coco + stuber recovers the cue output of the TX as a pseudo second aux output and I reinject the signal in the TX.
Edit: I apologise for the off-topic aspect
Edit 2: boum not bim ^^

[esencia]

Thank you!
What you can't see in the picture or you can guess. A norns and an op1f + oto bam and bim. The whole thing goes into the TX6. The coco + stuber recovers the cue output of the TX as a pseudo second aux output and I reinject the signal in the TX.
Edit: I apologise for the off-topic aspect

thank you so much and .. I apologise also for the off-topic. My fault (I couldn't resist it)

[luketeaford]

Something I've stumbled into after 6 months of plumbutter jams: you can speed up the 4 rollz by patching from its orange to its diagonal brown input or the verso/inverso (blue input). I don't think there's a good reason to use the brown input actually, but I started exploring there 'cause I noticed patching browns from other rollz together sped it up.

[triangle]

sped it up.

Nice!
from the diagonal orange to brown, then add patching from ground into the inverso jack of roll for even faster speed! ground to 3 roll inverso also works.
for ex.


the left gong white audio out can be used as a “trigger in” for using a roll brown jack…this will bypass the knob/trigger divider so possible to use these faster speeds to trigger gong too, or with odd roll brown inject chaos right into gong. Can also trigger the gong with green at same time to get interesting rhythms from just one gong going, maybe easier at slower roll speed lol.

[luketeaford]

sped it up.

Nice!
from the diagonal orange to brown, then add patching from ground into the inverso jack of roll for even faster speed! ground to 3 roll inverso also works.
for ex.


the left gong white audio out can be used as a “trigger in” for using a roll brown jack…this will bypass the knob/trigger divider so possible to use these faster speeds to trigger gong too, or with odd roll brown inject chaos right into gong. Can also trigger the gong with green at same time to get interesting rhythms from just one gong going, maybe easier at slower roll speed lol.

I have magic yodel guiro going on now-- thank you!

The ONE-cable plumbutter patch:
- left gong white out => brown 3 (where Ringo is on Let it Be cover)

[triangle]

excellent!

[luketeaford]

Does it really have to be the left gong? I have trouble triggering my right gong (so it's only useful as a drone or very low probability extra ping), but it definitely doesn't work to patch the same on the right side for some reason.

[triangle]

Does it really have to be the left gong? I have trouble triggering my right gong (so it's only useful as a drone or very low probability extra ping), but it definitely doesn't work to patch the same on the right side for some reason.

far as I’ve experienced, the white roll as triggered by brown roll only works on the left gong. experimenting is best to make sure though! like DH can be triggered through its orange jack with a lot of the different signals of pb2 and around cl,

[noctambulance]

Right now the only banana gear I have is the Plumbutter 2, cocoquantus, double knot 2, double knot 3 and keyed Mosstone. I am scratching my head, as the PB trigger inputs don’t seem to want to register any signals coming from the Lorre Mill boxes. I have all of the grounds connected. Am I doing something wrong or leaving something out of the equation? I’d love to sync and trigger the PB to the double knots.

[triangle]

I’d love to sync and trigger the PB to the double knots.

Havnt tried the dk3, but I have had good results with the dk2 clock/logic section outputs working as triggers for gong and avdog. Also good results using orange of a roll from pb2 into the dk shift register clock input(s). I don’t believe I’ve had any luck using the shift register outs as triggers for pb2 though, just the clock section.

I just hook their grounds together.

edit: just double checked, can also use the orange from roll to trigger the dk2 envelopes, or as data source. There can be some interesting results using for ex. Avdog orange cv out as clock for the dk shift registers too

[noctambulance]

thanks - will explore with the DK2.

another question - I find that if I stack cables from one of the orange sequencer outputs to trigger the gongs or the avdogs via the green jacks, it clears out the sequencer steps as they reach step 8. Normal behavior?

I also notice that the triggering, at least of the gongs, does not happen when the light is at the step but after it advances past the output.

[triangle]

If you have signals into data and clock, the sequence should continue…for ex an orange from roll and a brown from roll. But if you’re looping one of the orange outs from mwtrs back to be the data for a looping pattern, then stacking that same orange to something else yeah that seems to make it not suitable as data anymore and the sequence will end.

sounds normal

something I like is using the cv outputs of gong, avdog, or yellow of ultrasound etc as the data and/or clock signals, can get interesting sequences this way that will change as you modulate the associated modules verso/inverso.

[Klipspringer]

Today I had to fix a cold solder joint on my PB2. It was the top orange jack on the TMWTRS, FWIW (now that's a lot of initials!). But I got to thinking that I have another issue from ages ago that I solved in a mechanical way with tape and that's the stereo output.

The jack is like a little loose and it's probably a cold solder or something, but I can't figure out how to remove the top of the PB2 to get to that, Is that something I could do even?

[esencia]

Today I had to fix a cold solder joint on my PB2. It was the top orange jack on the TMWTRS, FWIW (now that's a lot of initials!). But I got to thinking that I have another issue from ages ago that I solved in a mechanical way with tape and that's the stereo output.

The jack is like a little loose and it's probably a cold solder or something, but I can't figure out how to remove the top of the PB2 to get to that, Is that something I could do even?

Wow!
May I ask how do you opened it for doing that? I mean…what’s the procedure to take out too wood panels?
Best

[Klipspringer]

The bottom comes off fairly easily as it's just the big screws on the top (not on the deerhorn just the wooden part). If you carefully wiggle it out you can fix a few things like I've had to do, My problem is with the top half ... I can't figure out how to remove the wooden board.

[triangle]

The bottom comes off fairly easily as it's just the big screws on the top (not on the deerhorn just the wooden part). If you carefully wiggle it out you can fix a few things like I've had to do, My problem is with the top half ... I can't figure out how to remove the wooden board.

I think you would need to desolder every banana jack? then the pcb would be free from the wood but , never tried so just a guess

[Klipspringer]

I think you're right triangle :(

It works OK now and I don't see a problem moving forward, but I was curious.

[Nelson Baboon]

wasn't sure in what thread to post this - i guess i'll post this in the plumbutter thread because i just encountered this while working with my pb2. I was thinking that maybe there was something wrong with my left gong (it's hereditary). i couldn't get any sound from it, while the other one was singing merrily. i then pulled the trs cable out a little bit, and lo - yeah. Damn. plug it all the way in, and only the right one makes sound. pull it out part way, and both make sound. (i remembered that i've had this issue with other banana gear - definitely with the double knot.

Is there a reliable cable for this purpose? - i mostly wind up using the 1/8" trs to 2 quarter inch. i don't recall it happening with 1/8" to 1/8" trs for communication between cl devices. These are the cheaper hosa cables (i think they make more expensive ones. it's the usual - i want something reliable, but don't want to spend more than i need to. Anyone have a good brand/model/source?

[Klipspringer]

I was messing around with making the AVDog more interesting over the weekend and I got some cool results. But then somehow I killed the AVDog mixer section!

No volume at all. I put the headphones on and underneath my tinnitus I hear the mewling sounds of the two modules. Oh boy I was having a first world meltdown in my mind.

What did I do?

So I unpatched everything unpowered the thingy and sat thinking about my vacuous life. Then I thought, well maybe it's just a bad dream. Repatched the AVDog powered the PB back on, and low and behold there is a God. It just started working. Great. Then a few hours later it stopped working. For no apparent reason, then it started again. And today it's been no problem. The AVDog mixer section is good.

What is going on? I suspect I was a bad boy when modulating the AVDog's mixer with some CV maybe? I really don't know but I bet you guys know. What's causing this and how could I best go about diagnosing the issue or preventing it in the future?

[oblis]

What did I do?

Maybe a silly question, but are you interacting with the toggle switch at all? I sometimes forget that I’ve flipped them into the off position.

[Klipspringer]

Oh yes I checked that. Wiggled the jacks and everything. All the mechanical things were checked. I did notice a intermittent white jack on the lower AVDog but that's just a solder job which I'm now getting good at!

In the manual which I just re-read Peter says:

Now, the core of the Plumbutter is actually directly unheard of through this mixer, for it is the pulse machinery that drives it...

So perhaps it's something upstream and not on the mixing sections itself?

[baleen]

Oh yes I checked that. Wiggled the jacks and everything. All the mechanical things were checked. I did notice a intermittent white jack on the lower AVDog but that's just a solder job which I'm now getting good at!

In the manual which I just re-read Peter says:

Now, the core of the Plumbutter is actually directly unheard of through this mixer, for it is the pulse machinery that drives it...

So perhaps it's something upstream and not on the mixing sections itself?

have you totally unpatched the Dogs? Depending on the CV, modulating the verso/inverso can mute the Dogs for me.

[Klipspringer]

have you totally unpatched the Dogs? Depending on the CV, modulating the verso/inverso can mute the Dogs for me.

Yes, everything was unpatched and unpowered. It was still mute, but then after re-re-patching it started working again and it's working today. So I don't know if it was something about the blue jacks on the AVDog (which I was modulating with PB only voltages) and it "cleared" itself after a re-patch and power cycle, but that seems weird to me.

Can the circuitry even memorize a state after a power cycle?