Super Sixteen build support thread

Creator of of the Super Sixteen Sequencer and based in San Francisco. This is a DIY and Finished Good product for Eurorack.

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Tnunnery
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by Tnunnery »

Ok, so I get a "avrdude.exe: stk500v2_command(): command failed" on COM4.

When, after connecting the Super Sixteen (trying both orientations of the connector as well as powering/not powering the module), the command "$ avrdude -P COM4 -p m328p -c stk500 -U flash:w:firmware.hex" I also get a command failed message, followed by "initialization failed, rc=-1."

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extralifedisco
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

Tnunnery wrote: Wed Jan 26, 2022 11:08 am Ok, so I get a "avrdude.exe: stk500v2_command(): command failed" on COM4.

When, after connecting the Super Sixteen (trying both orientations of the connector as well as powering/not powering the module), the command "$ avrdude -P COM4 -p m328p -c stk500 -U flash:w:firmware.hex" I also get a command failed message, followed by "initialization failed, rc=-1."

TVN
Yes, that sounds like the programmer is working but unable to begin serial comms with the atmega. The "initialization failed" message also appears in my output if the board is disconnected, (I just posted the first couple lines returned in my copy/paste). At this point it is possible your Atmega chip is damaged or defective, but there are a few more things to try before making this assumption.

0. Be sure to try programming with the CPU/Control boards disconnected, using only the CPU board. (I assume you have done this already but just want to be sure.) Also, try adding -v for "verbose mode" to the programming command to get more detailed output, e.g.
avrdude -v -P COM4 -p m328p -c stk500 -U flash:w:firmware.hex

1. Thoroughly clean the solder side of your CPU board with a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. Your photos do show a lot of flux residue and some stray solder bits, it's normally not an issue but it's possible there's a short circuit or conductivity we haven't noticed by visual inspection.


2. Clean up the solder joints indicated in the attached photo - I inspected your board more closely and found one place that could cause this issue if the joint is incomplete/cold - hard to tell from the picture. It's on one of the 22pf capacitors near the crystal oscillator on the cpu board. If the Atmega is new, it should be configured to run its internal clock at 4mHz so perhaps it doesn't matter, but if there's an issue on the clock line perhaps that causes desync:
InkedIMG_0564_LI.jpg

3.Use a multimeter to check for 5V on pins 5 and 21 of the Atmega328P. The location of the 5V rail and pins is highlighted in the attached PCB diagram. Use a multimeter in DC volts mode and put the black probe on the metal tab of the 7805 voltage regulator. Attach your eurorack power supply to the power connector and turn it on. Use the red probe to test the voltage of pins 5 and 21 - you should find +5V, more or less on those pins. If you find 0V or 12V, a you have a faulty regulator, a bad joint, a broken trace, or a short circuit somewhere, possibly within an IC. If you find 12V anywhere on the Atmega chip, it will likely have suffered an overvoltage failure and need replacement:
cpu_5v.jpg

4. Very unlikely to be an issue, but you can check the integrity of the ICSP traces themselves. They are short and run horizontally from the header pins to the atmega pins as depicted in the diagram below. If the board has a defect or has been bent or cracked in transit it's possible there is a discontinuity. Again these traces are short and they look fine visually but it would only take a moment to check using a multimeter in continuity mode.
icsp traces.jpg


If you try all the above and still can't program the chip, I think it is safe to assume there is a faulty IC on the board, either the Atmega or the DAC (which could cause issues on the RESET line). You can order a replacement Atmega IC (pre-programmed) or a new CPU board from my website via this page (you can use the discount code "2F70GMNG0JCS" for free shipping):
https://store.extralifeinstruments.com/ ... 4557015191

It is possible to desolder and replace an IC though I personally find it very difficult and time-consuming to do. If it is necessary, I would probably replace the whole board as it's the smaller and less expensive one to do, BOM-wise. If you chose to desolder the chip I would recommend doing it destructively and simply clipping all of the IC legs on the top side and then desoldering each pin individually - this is much easier and after all the chip is suspect. If you order a replacement part I will include some IC sockets to go with!

Best of luck with the final stages of troubleshooting and let me know if you discover anything conclusive.
Tnunnery
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by Tnunnery »

Ok, after cleaning up my flux mess a bit, I checked some points on the board and nothing was looking right. I put in a new Atmega and a crystal (I had quite a few and thought "what the heck.") No changes. I'm ordering a new regulator and DAC. If this doesn't work, I'll probably just replace the board. Thanks for your fantastic level of help troubleshooting. Stay tuned!

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Morgo_The_MonkeyGod
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Broken Trace

Post by Morgo_The_MonkeyGod »

Broken trace.

I am an idiot and have somehow managed to remove a pad in my build...

Can someone confirm that R118 connects to C114 on the bottom of the Smaller CPU board? I may need to add a flylead to fix the issue.

Thanks in advance

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extralifedisco
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Re: Broken Trace

Post by extralifedisco »

Morgo_The_MonkeyGod wrote: Fri Feb 25, 2022 4:56 pm Broken trace.

I am an idiot and have somehow managed to remove a pad in my build...

Can someone confirm that R118 connects to C114 on the bottom of the Smaller CPU board? I may need to add a flylead to fix the issue.

Thanks in advance

Corrado
Yes, that's correct. There's a trace on the bottom of the PCB connecting R118 to C114. A diagram is included below. It continues on the top side to pin 6 of the TL072. You can use a mod wire to mend the trace by joining the solder points. I recommend the smallest gauge solid-wire available, and lay the wire flat on the board before soldering.
r118-c114.png
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Re: Broken Trace

Post by Morgo_The_MonkeyGod »

extralifedisco wrote: Fri Feb 25, 2022 5:30 pm
Morgo_The_MonkeyGod wrote: Fri Feb 25, 2022 4:56 pm Broken trace.

I am an idiot and have somehow managed to remove a pad in my build...

Can someone confirm that R118 connects to C114 on the bottom of the Smaller CPU board? I may need to add a flylead to fix the issue.

Thanks in advance

Corrado
Yes, that's correct. There's a trace on the bottom of the PCB connecting R118 to C114. A diagram is included below. It continues on the top side to pin 6 of the TL072. You can use a mod wire to mend the trace by joining the solder points. I recommend the smallest gauge solid-wire available, and lay the wire flat on the board before soldering.

r118-c114.png

Thanks so very much

You sir are a star!
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by Morgo_The_MonkeyGod »

Built all working Bosh!

Great bit of kit.

C
voididm
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by voididm »

Hi Matthew,
I bought your "PANEL/PCB & FIRMWARE CHIP kit" at thonk, Just finished a build. Did the Electrical and functional tests, all good. Plug it in..... and can not turn on. LED glows for a moment,but... Nothing.
I went through the entire 2 boards, and verified polarity. I have no way anymore.....

Here are photos of the PCBs. Please help me. Pardon my broken English.:waah:

Image
Image
Image
Image
voididm
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by voididm »

voididm wrote: Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:42 pm Hi Matthew,
I bought your "PANEL/PCB & FIRMWARE CHIP kit" at thonk, Just finished a build. Did the Electrical and functional tests, all good. Plug it in..... and can not turn on. LED glows for a moment,but... Nothing.
I went through the entire 2 boards, and verified polarity. I have no way anymore.....

Here are photos of the PCBs. Please help me. Pardon my broken English.:waah:

Image
Image
Image
Image
I found it by looking at my own photos. Soldering of C109 failed.
I hurriedly repaired it, but things didn't improve...
Use a multimeter to check for 5V on pins 5 and 21 of the Atmega328P.
The voltage wasn't coming.
I suspected the L7805 was out of order and replaced it with a new one, but things didn't improve.....
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grm
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by grm »

reposting this here from the firmware update thread https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic ... 7#p3729407, as it seems like i've rather hardware issues after the flashing of the firmware seems to be solved.
extralifedisco wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 12:48 am

grm wrote: ↑Tue Mar 08, 2022 7:22 pm
update: i've desoldered the negative voltage regulator and soldered a correct one it, when powering the module the display stays of and LED 7, 10 & 15 are lit (brigther than with the wrong regulator). let me know if i shall split this issues and post it in the other thread?

Ah, that's interesting. I don't really know what applying a positive voltage to a negative regulator causes on the output! Perhaps it let the full 12V through to the CPU? If it quickly overheated, I would guess that it caused an overvoltage fault somewhere and drained it to ground via short circuit internally in one of the ICs. Based on the module behavior, my suspicion is that the shift registers are not recieving serial comms from the CPU and are just stuck in their last state, with leds 7/10/15 activated by coincidence. The display driver is probably in the same state but the transistor drivers are driven by the CPU directly so they aren't turned on.

My first guess is that the CPU (Atmega chip) was either damaged or put in a reset state by the voltage regulator issue. One way to check would be to try to program the chip again. If you can program it successfully, the chip is likely fine. If not, you are likely looking at replacing it. If your Super Sixteen and Arduino Uno both have socketed DIP-28 chips, you could try swapping them and programming it over USB rather than ICSP, which may be easier to check.
hey, again thank you for your response and excuses for my long absence here. only today i found some time for tinkering with the super sixteen again. and did manage to do the .hex upload and the fuse setting as described above on the same atmeg ic, but the result is the same as before (only the LEDs of step 7,10,15 come on). then i used a brand new atmeg IC and flashed it successfully, with the result of the LEDs of steps 10,11,12, 14,15 lighting up and no other functions when the module gets powered up. >>> as stated above i still have had the wrong(?) WINBOND ic on the board, it is a W25Q128FVSG instead of a W25Q80DVSNU104, so the next thing i did was to change that. now i have the correct memory IC on the board, but the results are the same. since i guess this is an issue with other things than the just firmware, i will also post this in the build thread. any hints of where to look next welcome. i've measured the voltage pins of all the ICs and they seem to get what they need. one thing i have also found out, is that when disconnecting the CPU board from the control board while powered the random step led patterns that light up change, when reconnecting.
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extralifedisco
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

voididm wrote: Wed Mar 30, 2022 8:16 am
voididm wrote: Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:42 pm Hi Matthew,
I bought your "PANEL/PCB & FIRMWARE CHIP kit" at thonk, Just finished a build. Did the Electrical and functional tests, all good. Plug it in..... and can not turn on. LED glows for a moment,but... Nothing.
I went through the entire 2 boards, and verified polarity. I have no way anymore.....

Here are photos of the PCBs. Please help me. Pardon my broken English.:waah:
I found it by looking at my own photos. Soldering of C109 failed.
I hurriedly repaired it, but things didn't improve...
Use a multimeter to check for 5V on pins 5 and 21 of the Atmega328P.
The voltage wasn't coming.
I suspected the L7805 was out of order and replaced it with a new one, but things didn't improve.....
Hello,
Sorry for the delayed reply! Didn't get an email about this post for some reason - will check my notification settings.

If you are not getting 5V on the Atmega power pins, that's a show-stopper. Make sure you are probing by putting the red probe (+) of your multimeter on the Atmega (pins 21 or 7, not pin 5) and the black probe on the tab or center pin of the voltage regulator. You should also get +5V on the top pin of the voltage regulator.

I inspected your photos (thanks for sending such clear images) and found a couple other joints that need fixing. I would apply more flux and solder. Some of them are probably OK (hard to tell in photos), but at least one of them is probably not making good contact. It appears most of them are on the ground plane - they have the 4 diagonal tabs connecting them to the lighter green part of the PCB. These pins dissipate heat quickly so make sure to leave your iron on them long enough to flow the solder properly, and if you have trouble apply more flux, try a higher temperature, and/or use a larger soldering tip. I have circled the suspicious joints in the photos below.

One thing I couldn't check is the polarity of the input power diodes as they are hidden by the 330uF capacitor in your photos. Make sure they match the silkscreen on the board (D104, D103). On the top side of the boards, closely inspect the joints of the header pins. I have circled a couple of them in the photos. Use bright light and magnification if possible!
cpu-bottom.jpg
cpu-top.jpg
control-bottom.jpg
control-top.jpg
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extralifedisco
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

grm wrote: Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:50 am reposting this here from the firmware update thread https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic ... 7#p3729407, as it seems like i've rather hardware issues after the flashing of the firmware seems to be solved.
extralifedisco wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 12:48 am
...
My first guess is that the CPU (Atmega chip) was either damaged or put in a reset state by the voltage regulator issue. One way to check would be to try to program the chip again. If you can program it successfully, the chip is likely fine. If not, you are likely looking at replacing it. If your Super Sixteen and Arduino Uno both have socketed DIP-28 chips, you could try swapping them and programming it over USB rather than ICSP, which may be easier to check.
hey, again thank you for your response and excuses for my long absence here. only today i found some time for tinkering with the super sixteen again. and did manage to do the .hex upload and the fuse setting as described above on the same atmeg ic, but the result is the same as before (only the LEDs of step 7,10,15 come on). then i used a brand new atmeg IC and flashed it successfully, with the result of the LEDs of steps 10,11,12, 14,15 lighting up and no other functions when the module gets powered up. >>> as stated above i still have had the wrong(?) WINBOND ic on the board, it is a W25Q128FVSG instead of a W25Q80DVSNU104, so the next thing i did was to change that. now i have the correct memory IC on the board, but the results are the same. since i guess this is an issue with other things than the just firmware, i will also post this in the build thread. any hints of where to look next welcome. i've measured the voltage pins of all the ICs and they seem to get what they need. one thing i have also found out, is that when disconnecting the CPU board from the control board while powered the random step led patterns that light up change, when reconnecting.
Hello again!
Glad to hear you were able to flash the chip! It sounds like there's a hardware issue still. I can help debug if you post some photos of your PCBs which show both sides in bright light. Most likely there are one or more solder joints which need attention, and sometimes all it takes is a second set of eyes to spot them. You can also double check the polarity of the diodes and capacitors, which could certainly cause issues if any are in backwards. (It's also possible that the LEDs are installed backwards, as this produces strange patterns on the LED display due to the multiplexing circuit, but let's not jump to that conclusion yet.)

If the LEDs light up randomly when the boards are disconnected that's a good sign, it means the shift register chip has +5V and is likely working but not getting serial data or clock.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by voididm »

Thank you for your reply. I have tried all your advice, but that situation hasn't improved. But I noticed something wrong! When the power was turned on, the LP2950-3.3 regulator was generating a lot of heat. I replaced LP2950-3.3 with a new one. Everything went well! Thank you Matthew.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by grm »

extralifedisco wrote: Sat Apr 09, 2022 8:39 pm
grm wrote: Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:50 am reposting this here from the firmware update thread https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic ... 7#p3729407, as it seems like i've rather hardware issues after the flashing of the firmware seems to be solved.
extralifedisco wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 12:48 am
...
My first guess is that the CPU (Atmega chip) was either damaged or put in a reset state by the voltage regulator issue. One way to check would be to try to program the chip again. If you can program it successfully, the chip is likely fine. If not, you are likely looking at replacing it. If your Super Sixteen and Arduino Uno both have socketed DIP-28 chips, you could try swapping them and programming it over USB rather than ICSP, which may be easier to check.
hey, again thank you for your response and excuses for my long absence here. only today i found some time for tinkering with the super sixteen again. and did manage to do the .hex upload and the fuse setting as described above on the same atmeg ic, but the result is the same as before (only the LEDs of step 7,10,15 come on). then i used a brand new atmeg IC and flashed it successfully, with the result of the LEDs of steps 10,11,12, 14,15 lighting up and no other functions when the module gets powered up. >>> as stated above i still have had the wrong(?) WINBOND ic on the board, it is a W25Q128FVSG instead of a W25Q80DVSNU104, so the next thing i did was to change that. now i have the correct memory IC on the board, but the results are the same. since i guess this is an issue with other things than the just firmware, i will also post this in the build thread. any hints of where to look next welcome. i've measured the voltage pins of all the ICs and they seem to get what they need. one thing i have also found out, is that when disconnecting the CPU board from the control board while powered the random step led patterns that light up change, when reconnecting.
Hello again!
Glad to hear you were able to flash the chip! It sounds like there's a hardware issue still. I can help debug if you post some photos of your PCBs which show both sides in bright light. Most likely there are one or more solder joints which need attention, and sometimes all it takes is a second set of eyes to spot them. You can also double check the polarity of the diodes and capacitors, which could certainly cause issues if any are in backwards. (It's also possible that the LEDs are installed backwards, as this produces strange patterns on the LED display due to the multiplexing circuit, but let's not jump to that conclusion yet.)

If the LEDs light up randomly when the boards are disconnected that's a good sign, it means the shift register chip has +5V and is likely working but not getting serial data or clock.
ok, took me a while again, but here are finally some high rez pictures of my build.
perhaps another pair of eyes can find really the mistakes, i could not.
also any other hints of where to look, are appreciated. thank you.

Image
Image
Image
Image
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extralifedisco
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

grm wrote: Sun May 01, 2022 1:55 pm
ok, took me a while again, but here are finally some high rez pictures of my build.
perhaps another pair of eyes can find really the mistakes, i could not.
also any other hints of where to look, are appreciated. thank you.
Thanks for the photos! Your soldering looks very tidy and complete. I don't think there is an assembly issue here.

Next I would recommend swapping out the remaining ICs on the control board, namely the SN74HC595 shift registers and the MCP23S17. Both of them are 5V parts which could have been damaged by exposure to 12V during the negative regulator install (some regulators have internal diodes to prevent reverse biasing, which could send 12V through to the 5V rail). You could begin by removing only the MCP23S17 and leave the shift registers installed to see if this improves anything, as it sounds like the output gates may be working at least.

The other parts (capacitors and discrete transistors) should be fine after seeing 12V so I don't think you'd need to replace any other components.
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grm
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by grm »

extralifedisco wrote: Sun May 01, 2022 6:11 pm
grm wrote: Sun May 01, 2022 1:55 pm
ok, took me a while again, but here are finally some high rez pictures of my build.
perhaps another pair of eyes can find really the mistakes, i could not.
also any other hints of where to look, are appreciated. thank you.
Thanks for the photos! Your soldering looks very tidy and complete. I don't think there is an assembly issue here.

Next I would recommend swapping out the remaining ICs on the control board, namely the SN74HC595 shift registers and the MCP23S17. Both of them are 5V parts which could have been damaged by exposure to 12V during the negative regulator install (some regulators have internal diodes to prevent reverse biasing, which could send 12V through to the 5V rail). You could begin by removing only the MCP23S17 and leave the shift registers installed to see if this improves anything, as it sounds like the output gates may be working at least.

The other parts (capacitors and discrete transistors) should be fine after seeing 12V so I don't think you'd need to replace any other components.
thank you, for continious help. i went over the solder joints many times, and also think that that is not the issue. will try to get the ICs again, as i don't have spares to test it right away.

UPDATE:

today i went to some industrial zone in the kerosine belt of hellsinki to pick up a new MCP23S17 from a local supplier. tonight i exchanged first that, with the very same results as before, only the LEDs that the sift registers had been 'locked on' before lit up. then i also changed the shift registers to new ones, with the result that some other step LEDs lit up. then i measured all supply voltages from the regulators and the IC supply pins (again), all was as it should. then even though i was tired after a long day in babylon, i fired up the arduino uno again and first flashed BLINK to the onboard IC then copied the verbose lines to compile a new HEX flash code for termial, after reinstallment of the OS and arduino some paths had changed. i tried several versions with the one i had used before with the fuse and baudrate(?) adjustments (to be found somewhere here in the thread) and that i thought was resulting in a successful flashing of the MCU before, but none of them worked. then i used the verbose code from the arduino verbatim and just changed the path to the firmware.hex and :party: hooray, it worked. now the SUPER SIXTEEN boots up and all controls do something, to tired to try it all out for good, but i am optimistic. one flaw i discovered already, one of the step LEDs has half it's bulb cracked off from me being to violent removing the panel, but that will be an easy fix. :hyper:

i want to thank you to EXTRALIFE for your incredible work and the generous support here. :tu: i look forward to using the SEQ.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by DCDanno »

Nice module with clear build instructions. Just built a full kit from Thonk.

Question about calibration. Mine appears to have V1.1 firmware as the Turing mutations are available. Followed the calibration procedure using a multimeter. Button 1 will not go lower than .7835V. Button 9 is not available for calibration. I've currently set button 1 for 1V and button 8 for 8V.

Is this correct? Did the calibration procedure change from manual/video?
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

DCDanno wrote: Fri May 06, 2022 9:18 am Nice module with clear build instructions. Just built a full kit from Thonk.

Question about calibration. Mine appears to have V1.1 firmware as the Turing mutations are available. Followed the calibration procedure using a multimeter. Button 1 will not go lower than .7835V. Button 9 is not available for calibration. I've currently set button 1 for 1V and button 8 for 8V.

Is this correct? Did the calibration procedure change from manual/video?
Yes, good catch! button 1 should be 1v, 2 should be 2v, etc
The 0v calibration is not useful so I removed it to make it a bit more 1:1 UI-wise and free up the buttons.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by DCDanno »

extralifedisco wrote: Fri May 06, 2022 2:05 pm
DCDanno wrote: Fri May 06, 2022 9:18 am Nice module with clear build instructions. Just built a full kit from Thonk.

Question about calibration. Mine appears to have V1.1 firmware as the Turing mutations are available. Followed the calibration procedure using a multimeter. Button 1 will not go lower than .7835V. Button 9 is not available for calibration. I've currently set button 1 for 1V and button 8 for 8V.

Is this correct? Did the calibration procedure change from manual/video?
Yes, good catch! button 1 should be 1v, 2 should be 2v, etc
The 0v calibration is not useful so I removed it to make it a bit more 1:1 UI-wise and free up the buttons.
Excellent! Thank you for the speedy response.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by thedeany »

Hi, I just ordered a kit last night and was browsing this thread in preparation for the build whenever the kit gets in. Early on, you mentioned you were possibly going to start including DIP sockets with kits. Is this happening? I'd prefer to build mine with sockets, just in case something goes wrong, so I want to know if I should be sourcing some sockets (I don't have any currently) or if they'll come with the kit.

Looking forward to receiving the kit and getting started on the build!
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by extralifedisco »

thedeany wrote: Fri May 13, 2022 10:09 pm Hi, I just ordered a kit last night and was browsing this thread in preparation for the build whenever the kit gets in. Early on, you mentioned you were possibly going to start including DIP sockets with kits. Is this happening? I'd prefer to build mine with sockets, just in case something goes wrong, so I want to know if I should be sourcing some sockets (I don't have any currently) or if they'll come with the kit.

Looking forward to receiving the kit and getting started on the build!
Hey thanks so much! Yes, I am including IC sockets with the kits. They are seldom needed but never hurts to use 'em! Your order will ship out tomorrow morning. - MC
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by thedeany »

Awesome, glad to hear it!
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by SirAdrianFish »

A big and warm hello from Hamburg (Germany).

I am new to this forum, new to the Eurorack Modul System and have just joined the Club of "Extralife Super Sixteen" with a diy-build :wink:.

Great compliment - an interessting diy-project with very clear building instructions and superb videos accompanying it :yay: .

Unfortunately I believ I have got an Issue with the pitch function, which does not seem to work as it should. At this point I don't yet know for shure, if it me, still learning how to use the Super Sixteen, or if it is faulty.

Is there an easy way to test this function? So far I haven't found a schematic, so I don't realy know, which parts a responsibil for the pitch funktion.
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Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by DCDanno »

SirAdrianFish wrote: Wed May 18, 2022 3:55 pm A big and warm hello from Hamburg (Germany).

I am new to this forum, new to the Eurorack Modul System and have just joined the Club of "Extralife Super Sixteen" with a diy-build :wink:.

Great compliment - an interessting diy-project with very clear building instructions and superb videos accompanying it :yay: .

Unfortunately I believ I have got an Issue with the pitch function, which does not seem to work as it should. At this point I don't yet know for shure, if it me, still learning how to use the Super Sixteen, or if it is faulty.

Is there an easy way to test this function? So far I haven't found a schematic, so I don't realy know, which parts a responsibil for the pitch funktion.
Welcome, SirAdrian! Did you follow the calibration procedure? What specifically is the pitch function doing (or not doing?)
SirAdrianFish
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed May 18, 2022 3:01 pm

Re: Super Sixteen build support thread

Post by SirAdrianFish »

Hello @DCDanno.

Thank you for our replay. The calibration procedur worked without any problems.

I just located the problem and solved the issue. The Pitch-Potentiometer had a loose contact and I did not tighten the hex nuts enough, so they had a little slack.

At a first glance, everything seems to funktion the way it should, but I am stil testing.
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