New Oakley rack module: ADR30

[Synthbuilder]

Hi Harald,

Thanks for letting me know. I just got your e-mail too and have just replied to it.

On the GAIN2 adjust the hint to set the range switch to long is missing.

Maybe I haven't worded the description very clearly but I am not understanding the problem here. What you need to do is flip the range switch between long and short and adjust GAIN2 so that the levels are the same in both modes.

In BAL routine the Emitter of Q7 is on the right hand pin when the pots are facing you.

Yes, you're correct. I'm dyslexic so often get right and left mixed up. I have just uploaded the revised version of the User Manual with this fixed.

Tony

[Haralds:Werk]

Hi Harald,

Thanks for letting me know. I just got your e-mail too and have just replied to it.

On the GAIN2 adjust the hint to set the range switch to long is missing.

Maybe I haven't worded the description very clearly but I am not understanding the problem here. What you need to do is flip the range switch between long and short and adjust GAIN2 so that the levels are the same in both modes.

Tony

Thanks Tony. My fault on the GAIN2 adjust. It clearly says "irrespective of the position of the range switch". I misread this.

[emi2345]

I wonder if enough jacks for a module would fit onto the panel when I ditch the input and output level controls - is the input level essential or could one replace it with a fixed resistor for modular only use?

Input level is useful as BBD delays have a small signal operating range before they clip or get too noisy. Letting the ADR30 clip is an interesting effect though.

The PCB is just too wide to fit vertically into a 5U module. If you have a wooden case with wooden rails it may just fit - although I am slightly uncomfortable with mounting any BBD circuitry in an open box simply because of the large amount of high frequency signals they spew out.

Could it fit into 5U with 4 knobs and 4 jacks like the EFG? Input level - time - feedback - dry/wet. And the jacks input - output - time cv - feedback cv. On the PCB you could lose the LFO. I don’t know if that would give you enough space to fit into 5U but it would be a great addition.

[Synthbuilder]

Could it fit into 5U with 4 knobs and 4 jacks like the EFG?

I do have some ideas about how I could get a decently specified analogue delay in 5U. I think a double width module would be best. This would not only give enough knobs and sockets for a really useful module but also would allow for through hole components like the ADR30. The boards could then be mounted in a similar way to the ASV.

A basic delay could be built like the Flanger/Chorus layout, ie. single width module with four pots and six sockets, but would require surface mount and probably a daughter board too. But given that the Flanger/Chorus has not sold well I'm not sure I want to go down that route. Whether it hasn't sold well because it uses surface mount parts, or that few people want a flanger/chorus, or that my demos weren't good enough, I don't know.

I'll also be putting a delay in the MAP - which is what the initial work on the ADR30 was originally intended for. But that is some way off yet.

Tony

[emi2345]

A basic delay could be built like the Flanger/Chorus layout, ie. single width module with four pots and six sockets, but would require surface mount and probably a daughter board too. But given that the Flanger/Chorus has not sold well I'm not sure I want to go down that route. Whether it hasn't sold well because it uses surface mount parts, or that few people want a flanger/chorus, or that my demos weren't good enough, I don't know.
Tony

The demos of the flanger sound amazing and made me instantly want it. I’ve never done smt before and that seems fiddly but the comments on the thread seem to suggest it isn’t hard. I’ve just ordered one so we’ll see. Perhaps the flanger is competing more directly with the enormous array of guitar pedals out there. Is it possible for you to have the boards made with the smt components soldered from the factory? Then the diyer can add the through hole ones.

[todd_r]

Sounds amazing! How likely/possible is a stereo version?

[Synthbuilder]

Sounds amazing! How likely/possible is a stereo version?

I'd say extremely unlikely. Mostly due to expected sales and cost - the ADR30 hasn't sold well and the cost of a stereo one, to develop and for the user to build, would be prohibitive.

Tony

[todd_r]

Sounds amazing! How likely/possible is a stereo version?

I'd say extremely unlikely. Mostly due to expected sales and cost - the ADR30 hasn't sold well and the cost of a stereo one, to develop and for the user to build, would be prohibitive.

Tony

Ah ok, no problem. What is the build cost, and do you think it would be someone would be able to DIY a stereo solution with two?

[Synthbuilder]

What is the build cost...

This very much depends on where you buy your components and your choice of case, knobs etc. But I think you should budget around 150GBP for a single mono unit.

and do you think it would be someone would be able to DIY a stereo solution with two?

That's not quite as simple as building two because you'd have to find some way of getting both delays to be in sync. ie. the same delay time for each one, when working in stereo. You'd have to pass the high frequency clock signals that control the delay time and tracking filters from the master ADR30 to the slave ADR30. Then there's the problem of having two sets of input and output level controls which probably should be stereo pots. It's not impossible though - just a little messy.

Tony

[eljay]

I've just finished building this using the YM-300 project case for the enclosure. I created an FPD file for the rear panel to act as a drilling template. I also printed it out on photo glossy paper, laminated it, cut it out and stuck in on with spray adhesive.


I thought others might find the FPD file useful so here is one I have successfully used.

[johnchantler]

picking this project up again after a bit of a break. thinking of the following for a full 19" width rack panel.

missing anything really obvious? planning to put the power switch on the back.

[DrP]

Hi all, Newbie here so apologies in advance! I know this is an old thread but was wondering if anyone could give me a bit of info on the Laney adx that is mentioned in this thread?

So I have bought one of these and want to use it as an aux send on a mixer. The inputs available are only mic or instrument... my Hill audio mixer is +4dB line out... will a DI be needed so I don’t murder the input, or just some very low input gain. Also in either case would the instrument be the better choice as it is in between mic and line level?

Anyone have any advice it would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

DrP

[Synthbuilder]

... my Hill audio mixer is +4dB line out... will a DI be needed so I don’t murder the input, or just some very low input gain. Also in either case would the instrument be the better choice as it is in between mic and line level?

You should connect the aux out from your desk direct to the instrument input and not the mic inputs on the Laney. The mixing desk output is specified for pro-audio levels (ie. +4dB) but the actual signal level can be controlled with the Aux send pot on the mixer. So simply adjust the aux send control so that the Laney is not overloaded and sounds clean(ish). That said, you shouldn't do any damage to the Laney even the audio gets distorted. Indeed, an overloaded BBD delay unit can be a wonderful thing.

[johnchantler]

quick note to say that I finished building / calibrating this a little while back and I absolutely love it. delays can sound very clean for BBD, but then the input sounds great when driven hard. thank you for making it available.

[oozitron]

If one was to build an ADR30 as a "desktop" unit with the pots on the top and hand-wired back to the Main PCB, would those wires need special shielding?

If so, can anyone give me details that would help me find & purchase the correct type? (I'm a noob as far as special wires go)

thanks!
Andrew

[Synthbuilder]

If one was to build an ADR30 as a "desktop" unit with the pots on the top and hand-wired back to the Main PCB, would those wires need special shielding?

Some of the pots would be fine with just normal hook up wire so long as you kept them reasonably short and used a metal case.

The input level, feedback and output level controls should have their wiper and CCW (counter clockwise) pins connected with screened audio cable - the screen going to the CCW pin on the pot and pin 1 (left) of the pot's PCB pads. The CW (clockwise) pin can use ordinary hook up wire. The screened cable should be of small diameter to make things neat. I use this stuff:

https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/jy-10 ... p/CBBR4177

The wet dry pot is the most problematic. It may work with ordinary hook up wire, but I'd be tempted, for the wiper connection to use screened cable. The screen at one if its ends being connected to 0V somewhere on the PCB, eg. a neighbouring pot's pin 1 pad.

Just to reiterate - the case should be made from metal, or at least have a metal foil screen on its internal surfaces if made from other materials.

Tony

[Bobby]

@Tony,

Do you have any recommended builders of your stuff, v interested in the delay?

Cheers

Bobby

[Synthbuilder]

Do you have any recommended builders of your stuff, v interested in the delay?

Patrick Jöricke in Germany is usually able to build my projects to order. His website:

https://www.DSL-man.de

Tony

[Bobby]

Do you have any recommended builders of your stuff, v interested in the delay?

Patrick Jöricke in Germany is usually able to build my projects to order. His website:

https://www.DSL-man.de

Tony

Brilliant. Thank you.

[LED-man]

I made a dual ADR30: