Oakley PSU2 Banana Socket Part

[waldenpotato]

I'm having trouble finding a part number for the banana socket in the attached photo. I like this one because it has a threaded end that would make it easy to attach and remove the wiring without using a soldering iron. The best banana socket recommendation I've found is related to module front panel mounted banana sockets for modules using banana sockets - something like this:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Jo ... 0vFA%3D%3D

Thanks.

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[eljay]

I use this part from Rapid Electronics in the UK, 17-0610, this does require the lead to be soldered to the lug of the socket but in my experience, once fitted you are unlikely to need to take it apart and this is easily achieved anyway if you use a ring connector on the other end in the same way as your screen shot.

The type of socket you have specified however is probably part number 17-1320, also from Rapid, this is a 4mm Shrouded socket and will accept a banana jack I assume. It is however three times the cost.

[waldenpotato]

Thanks for this info. I should've mentioned that I'm in the USA. It's hard to translate Rapid parts to parts numbers I can easily get over here. The part number you mention aren't quite what is in the attached photo. I found another good photo to attach from the Euro PSU.

Thanks for responding - appreciate it!

[Synthbuilder]

What you are looking for is a '4mm binding post'. I've no idea where I bought those ones as they were parts I stashed away some time ago.

They're most often used as loudspeaker terminals on the back of hi-fi amplifiers. For example:

Mouser No: 565-2439-0

However, you don't need insulated ones like the ones above since they are at the same potential as the metal plate they are secured to. So these sorts of things may also do:

Mouser No: 530-111-2223-001

[eljay]

Mouser part 548-BU-31607-0 seems pretty similar, I don't think an exact match is necessary but it is a black banana socket with a threaded connection on the back. I used the search function in Mouser with the keywords 'banana socket' to find this.

[waldenpotato]

What you are looking for is a '4mm binding post'.

Binding post.... this is it. The binding posts have the "thumb screw" ability that allows you to shove a wire in there and lock it in - but also use a banana plug. That's why it looks so different than the banana sockets I've been finding. I've been searching audio equipment places for banana sockets and they don't quite look the same.

I have a feeling that binding posts are a little more strange to mount because the plastic parts aren't complete circles, they have a flat side. Is a binding post recommended or would the banana plugs I mentioned above to a good job? (I've always had a difficult time trying to mount these types of binding posts to my breadboard......)

Thanks for those part numbers.

[waldenpotato]

Mouser part 548-BU-31607-0 seems pretty similar, I don't think an exact match is necessary but it is a black banana socket with a threaded connection on the back. I used the search function in Mouser with the keywords 'banana socket' to find this.

Thanks, eljay. I know you've mentioned that I should search around on my own for these parts. Sometimes you just get stuck! I appreciate it and I'll poke around Mouser for "binding posts with banana sockets".

[Synthbuilder]

Is a binding post recommended or would the banana plugs I mentioned above to a good job?

Either will do. I prefer the ones with the thread as I don't have to solder. Crimping gives a lower resistance bond compared to soldering.

You can shove wires into binding posts but a crimped spade terminal is better. You can use a 4mm (banana) plug too but do use a decent one and not some flimsy thing.

[waldenpotato]

You can shove wires into binding posts but a crimped spade terminal is better. You can use a 4mm (banana) plug too but do use a decent one and not some flimsy thing.

It's looking like the hole for any loose wires would be on the outside of the panel, which I would probably just disregard and assume I can use a banana-plugged cable on the top.

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[Synthbuilder]

It's looking like the hole for any loose wires would be on the outside of the panel, which I would probably just disregard and assume I can use a banana-plugged cable on the top.

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The spade terminal is for the external jumper cable that joins two cases together. You get a lower resistance connection with a spade terminal compared to a banana.

You would normally use a ring terminal to make the internal connection.

[waldenpotato]

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The spade terminal is for the external jumper cable that joins two cases together. You get a lower resistance connection with a spade terminal compared to a banana.

You would normally use a ring terminal to make the internal connection.

I might be a little more confused now. But only a little. This is the first I've heard of using spade terminals to connect cases. Are you just saying that a spade terminal connection between cases would provide lower resistance than using banana connections?

It also might be confusing because most of the binding posts I'm finding include two ways to connect to them - not including the threaded portion that would be inside the case:
- the little hole that gets exposed when you unscrew their top
- the banana socket at the end of the top

I like the idea of using a banana-type socket because you can stack the banana cables to make it easier to connect multiple cases. eljay pointed out this part and it's the one I'm leaning towards using for these connections: 548-BU-31607-0. The datasheet is sparse but I'm assuming I can use 4mm bananas with it.

[Synthbuilder]

Are you just saying that a spade terminal connection between cases would provide lower resistance than using banana connections?

Probably, but I've not measured it. And there's banana plugs and banana plugs. Some have just a single springy bit of metal that holds them in place, others have a multitude of springy fingers.

Ultimately, it's about contact surface area. A spade terminal slides into place and is screwed down. The contact area between post and spade is likely to be more than a banana plug and therefore less resistance.

I like the idea of using a banana-type socket because you can stack the banana cables to make it easier to connect multiple cases.

You can stack spade terminals as well.

Two stacked bananas won't be as good as two (or more) binding posts (or banana sockets) at the back of each your cases.

Don't overthink this though. 'Grounding' between cases will be made the moment you use a patch lead irrespective of whether you have a grounding bond or not. The benefit of the additional banana lead is that it reduces the electrical resistance between the cases and reduces the amount of unwanted crosstalk. Whether any additional bonding is needed depends on how many modules you have in each case, what sort of modules you have, and whether a bit of crosstalk actually bothers you.

If you want the best solution - don't use 4mm bananas but use Dinse or Tweco connectors. These were designed for welding equipment so have a very low contact resistance. Be warned though - these are BIG connectors. Banana's work well enough for me.

[waldenpotato]

A spade terminal slides into place and is screwed down.

This just clicked for me. I couldn't imagine how to use a spade terminal. It can slide into place around the binding post and then the binding post head can be screwed closed while tightening the spade terminal connection. I was having trouble imagining how a spade terminal could fit into a banana socket or the little hole in the binding post.

If you want the best solution - don't use 4mm bananas but use Dinse or Tweco connectors. These were designed for welding equipment so have a very low contact resistance. Be warned though - these are BIG connectors. Banana's work well enough for me.

The Dinse and Tweco connectors look very intense. These look like they'd be a good solution for a gigantic system. I'm probably only ever going to work with 6-8 small 19" cases with one power supply each. I'll just have to experiment and see how things go because it'll take a while to get there.

Thanks.