Behringer 2600

[Otto L]

dunno how a3 is different to A2 for the bourns. A2 i guess r get one each, just in case.

Here's the difference. I haven't been following close enough to know which slider is being replaced.

As one example, A2 would be better for an EG's A,D,R because it gives smaller change through the first half of travel. Making short timings easier to adjust.

Ace! That’s the chart I was too lazy to look up it’s for the mixer, so rather a3 then, I guess. (Didn’t measure the Behringer tapers, but yeah, we talked about their curves some time back).

Hi again Maffez, you are right. I obtained the sliders from Mouser (couldn't find them anywhere else) and after some delay I received them here in the Netherlands (never occured to me that Mouser has 1 worldwide warehouse in Texas but apparently so...). I had ordered both the A2 and A3 versions to be sure. After desoldering the broken slider from my barp (the left slider in the mixer) I measured it when halfway and sure enough, the A3 version is just about right, the A2 has a significantly different characteristic. The Bourns slider fits nicely, the sliders in the Barp have a metal reinforcement bracket with 2 solder pins (connected to nothing, just for stress relief I guess) that the Bourns hasn't got, but the other 6 pins fit just fine. Maybe it would be possible to transplant the bracket to the new slider but that didn't seem worthwhile.
Even with a desoldering (solder suction) tool it was a bit fiddly to get the old one out but in the end it worked. I also swapped 2 jack sockets for reasons quoted above. Finally I put in the "lazy" e-switch control mod from your site.

I had to find white 2x3x4mm LEDs somewhere else (mouser didn't have them) and I had to replace the leds in 2 other sliders (power spike when the mixer slider broke off maybe?) but now everything works as it should.

Thanks again for the tips and pointers!

[Maffez]

Hi again Maffez, you are right. I obtained the sliders from Mouser (couldn't find them anywhere else) and after some delay I received them here in the Netherlands (never occured to me that Mouser has 1 worldwide warehouse in Texas but apparently so...). I had ordered both the A2 and A3 versions to be sure. After desoldering the broken slider from my barp (the left slider in the mixer) I measured it when halfway and sure enough, the A3 version is just about right, the A2 has a significantly different characteristic. The Bourns slider fits nicely, the sliders in the Barp have a metal reinforcement bracket with 2 solder pins (connected to nothing, just for stress relief I guess) that the Bourns hasn't got, but the other 6 pins fit just fine. Maybe it would be possible to transplant the bracket to the new slider but that didn't seem worthwhile.
Even with a desoldering (solder suction) tool it was a bit fiddly to get the old one out but in the end it worked. I also swapped 2 jack sockets for reasons quoted above. Finally I put in the "lazy" e-switch control mod from your site.

I had to find white 2x3x4mm LEDs somewhere else (mouser didn't have them) and I had to replace the leds in 2 other sliders (power spike when the mixer slider broke off maybe?) but now everything works as it should.

Thanks again for the tips and pointers!

Good to know and glad you got everything on track again! And yep, eswitch mod opens quite some possibilities of of my faves is waveform splicing.

[Bata]

Here's another video showing some shorting techniques.

[BLogic12]

a little jam with only the 2600 and sq1

[Bata]

Great sounding patch! What are you doing with the noise there?

[a100user]

Here's another video showing some shorting techniques.

This has got me wondering how I can mount a switch on a mini Jack plug?

[BLogic12]

Great sounding patch! What are you doing with the noise there?

Thanks! Using it as a way to turn on or off the sample and hold, which is modulating vco 1

[Maffez]

Here's another video showing some shorting techniques.

This has got me wondering how I can mount a switch on a mini Jack plug?

Quite shameless of me, but you could use one of these here too…. https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

This crazy thing literally evolved from toying around with 2600 signal mixing and draining (see backstory but on bottom of page).

[Bata]

https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

This is super cool and interesting backstory too! Not sure what signal starvation is exactly but sounds interesting for sure. Thanks for sharing!

[revelc]

Quite shameless of me, but you could use one of these here too…. https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

This crazy thing literally evolved from toying around with 2600 signal mixing and draining (see backstory but on bottom of page).

Looks great!
Are there any US shops that carry Maffez kits? Or, ship to the US? Exploding Shed does not, as far as I can tell.

[Maffez]

Quite shameless of me, but you could use one of these here too…. https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

This crazy thing literally evolved from toying around with 2600 signal mixing and draining (see backstory but on bottom of page).

Looks great!
Are there any US shops that carry Maffez kits? Or, ship to the US? Exploding Shed does not, as far as I can tell.

Thanks! No US shops at the moment, sadly, and exploding shed was just something that happened, spur of the moment-wise, but I might look into that as soon as I have a bit of time!

@bata, the draining/starving is simply pulling signal to ground, but here you can control this a bit more and route it in different ways.

[Bata]

I tried a couple patches with commentary that might be helpful to beginners or people just looking for patch ideas. I would love to see some really experienced users do these types of videos if anyone is feeling charitable.

[markincork]

a little jam with only the 2600 and sq1

Excellent

[KSS]

https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

Did not find schematic in either PDF at this link

[Maffez]

https://maffez.com/?page_id=2872

Did not find schematic in either PDF at this link

schem got lost in an build doc update but i just attached again on site - build_bom_schem document

very straightforward circuit

[KSS]

very straightforward circuit

Yes.

[jimmie]

Can I use Korg micro key to play this? like microkey(USB-A) - B2500(USB-B)?

[Bata]

I did a quick start guide for beginners that's probably of no use to most members here but maybe some beginners check this thread.

[Maffez]

I did a quick start guide for beginners that's probably of no use to most members here but maybe some beginners check this thread.

Nice!

Good complement, also to your cool experimental patching vids, would be Tom Noise‘s patching tutorials -

[Bata]

Good complement, also to your cool experimental patching vids, would be Tom Noise‘s patching tutorials

I'm a big fan of T.Noise his patches were helpful when I first got the B2600.

I haven't watched every 2600 video online but I have seen quite a few of them and people are rarely showing how you can work with feedback. Here's a patch that doesn't use the VCOs, VCF, VCA, or EGs.



If anyone has tips for me on other things you can do with feedback on the 2600 I'd love to hear.

[constantG]

I come here to let you all know that I'm an idiot and shouldn't be allowed to dick around with things after too much alcohol and with that out of the way, can anyone help me.

I've tried to insert a different LED into VCO2 frequency slider to assess whether they are replaceable, not knowing that the one I tried to use was a dual colour LED and subsequently saw a puff of blue smoke.

The slider in question is the VCO 2 frequency which now goes from very low clicks straight to about middle C in the first 5mm instead of a clean frequency sweep. The other sliders that are affected are VCO 2 Fine tune, PW, PWM input, VCO3 Noise gen FM input and VCO3 VCO2 FM input. Although these only extinguish when the VCO2 PW slider goes past 50%. But I don't think any of their functionality is affected apart from the LED issue.

So, I am able to use a soldering iron and have built a fair few Eurorack modules, what I'm not sure about is how to troubleshoot what exactly is needing replaced, I'm fairly certain that the smoke came from the slider itself and have had the thing opened up and can't see any other obvious damage.

If anyone can give me a few pointers that'd be grand.

ps. The LED works in all other sliders.

[Maffez]

Hey, @ constantG, looks like your vco2 freq slider is bust. If I got your description right, the actual slider functionality (apart from them blinkenlights) is affected, yeah? If so, replace slider (see OttoL‘s post on bourns ptl types above in this thread) and use standard 2mmx3mm green LED. There are six LEDs in this very group, so the faulty LEDs you mention should be all good again once this one’s intact again.

[constantG]

Hey, @ constantG, looks like your vco2 freq slider is bust. If I got your description right, the actual slider functionality (apart from them blinkenlights) is affected, yeah? If so, replace slider (see OttoL‘s post on bourns ptl types above in this thread) and use standard 2mmx3mm green LED. There are six LEDs in this very group, so the faulty LEDs you mention should be all good again once this one’s intact again.

Thanks I hope this is the case. Now, I read otto's posts but still a bit unsure which slider to get as my slider has a different application than Otto's.

[Maffez]

B100k. It’s the A3 Type, I assume, as you’d have more even travel. But if you find a shop that carries A2 as well, it wouldn’t hurt to get one too, just in case.

[BLogic12]

Interesting thing I’ve been running into- when the have the left and right channels going to my audio mixer, if I have the two channels panned center, the spring reverb cancels out. If I pan the channels hard left and hard right the reverb returns/becomes audible.
The non reverberated/dry signal dosnt seem to be effected when panned or not panned just the reverb sound.
Not a huge deal I don’t think because if I’m running it mono I only need one channel, but kind of weird, like the reverb is out of phase between the two channels (but the dry signal isn’t?).