Hi again Maffez, you are right. I obtained the sliders from Mouser (couldn't find them anywhere else) and after some delay I received them here in the Netherlands (never occured to me that Mouser has 1 worldwide warehouse in Texas but apparently so...). I had ordered both the A2 and A3 versions to be sure. After desoldering the broken slider from my barp (the left slider in the mixer) I measured it when halfway and sure enough, the A3 version is just about right, the A2 has a significantly different characteristic. The Bourns slider fits nicely, the sliders in the Barp have a metal reinforcement bracket with 2 solder pins (connected to nothing, just for stress relief I guess) that the Bourns hasn't got, but the other 6 pins fit just fine. Maybe it would be possible to transplant the bracket to the new slider but that didn't seem worthwhile.Maffez wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 3:19 amAce! That’s the chart I was too lazy to look up it’s for the mixer, so rather a3 then, I guess. (Didn’t measure the Behringer tapers, but yeah, we talked about their curves some time back).KSS wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2023 11:10 pmHere's the difference. I haven't been following close enough to know which slider is being replaced.
As one example, A2 would be better for an EG's A,D,R because it gives smaller change through the first half of travel. Making short timings easier to adjust.
Even with a desoldering (solder suction) tool it was a bit fiddly to get the old one out but in the end it worked. I also swapped 2 jack sockets for reasons quoted above. Finally I put in the "lazy" e-switch control mod from your site.
I had to find white 2x3x4mm LEDs somewhere else (mouser didn't have them) and I had to replace the leds in 2 other sliders (power spike when the mixer slider broke off maybe?) but now everything works as it should.
Thanks again for the tips and pointers!