Behringer 2600

[J-Lo]

Brilliant post and thankyou x1000!

[KSS]

That patch also lets you do manual or VC accents*. Changing the voltage is like a variable sustain level. <--Which also means you can modulate the sustain during the AR.

*Only since the normal gate -not from a Keystep- is already 10V you set up the Vproc section for subtracting voltage instead of adding it.

[Bata]

I thought I might share an idea for creating random gate articulations .

I had some success using the lag processor on low frequency noise to get some random triggers. Play with the amount of slew, it's very touchy. Cool patch!

I had a go at combining Deans patch with Skweeegor's and this is what I come up with... damn thing started honking like a goose



I had to preamp the lagged noise to get it to a similar level as the oscillator pulses which I had to attenuate a bit but it was fun to mess around with!

I suppose I could have used KSS's tip for doubling the low trigger signal through the voltage processor but I hadn't read his post yet.

[Nightly Closures]

The goose is on the loose! Nice patch.

[DeanG]

BRAVO!

[Ingvar tautra]

The best of 2021. Couldn't be more delighted.
40 years ago I started with ARP 2600 and Rhodes Chroma. Hence, it's a sentimental journey for me as well. I recreated my setup from back then and couldn't resist a second 2600. With two 2600s one really gets into the sonic realms of the Chroma.

Wonderful setup! I has to buy my second 2600, but that was on the table anyway
Thanks for sharing, I will let me be inspiered by your creation.

Yes, do it! Buy a second one. It's awesome!
Welcome to the forum, Ingvar.

Thank you! Haha,yes I will! Love the Behringer 2600, wonderful tool.

[Bata]

[Otto L]

Hi all, first time post here (well in the BARP thread) - and immediately asking for help I'm afraid... I bought a second hand xmas tree 2600. I knew a slider was broken but for the price I couldn't resist. It turns out that there are a few (minor?) things not as they should be.

1st, the left mixer slider was snapped off. It works fine (but using a toothpick to move it is a bit too lo-tech even for me).

2nd, probably related, the LEDs on 4 or so sliders on the right hand side don't work. Are they wired in series with the snapped-off slider led somehow?

3nd, the normalling of one of the RM inputs to VCO1 saw isn't working - I have to patch something to the RM input to get it to work. The other input (normalled to sine of VCO2 I think) works fine. I opened the case and it seems to me that there is no contact on the 3.5mm input socket between the contacts that should be touching with no plug in the socket, if that makes sense. Weird, I have only rarely encountered broken 3.5mm sockets over the many years of Eurorack and (ages ago) building Formant modulars.

4th, a similar thing with the clock input of the S&H, it sometimes doesn't 'clock' until I press on the panel a bit in that corner. Also here, no contact in the break-contact in the socket, but if I wiggle or push the socket a bit it does work.

So, nothing that precludes hours of wiggling but I'd rather have everything as it should, obviously. So to my questions-
Does anyone have part nrs and addresses where to get the sliders (100K log/audio if I'm correct, white LED)? I found some on ebay but the price incl shipment is more than 10% of what I aid for the synth... similar sliders cost a few euro normally.

Also, is it correct that one snapped-off led on a slider causes 4 or 5 other leds to fail?

Finally, as for the sockets, I wasn't able to find any that look the same (vertical mount, no screw thread, black with a little circular metal inset). Anyone have part nrs and/or tips to fix them maybe?

Many thanks in advance for any help and suggestions!

[Maffez]

Hi all, first time post here (well in the BARP thread) - and immediately asking for help I'm afraid... I bought a second hand xmas tree 2600. I knew a slider was broken but for the price I couldn't resist. It turns out that there are a few (minor?) things not as they should be.

1st, the left mixer slider was snapped off. It works fine (but using a toothpick to move it is a bit too lo-tech even for me).

2nd, probably related, the LEDs on 4 or so sliders on the right hand side don't work. Are they wired in series with the snapped-off slider led somehow?

3nd, the normalling of one of the RM inputs to VCO1 saw isn't working - I have to patch something to the RM input to get it to work. The other input (normalled to sine of VCO2 I think) works fine. I opened the case and it seems to me that there is no contact on the 3.5mm input socket between the contacts that should be touching with no plug in the socket, if that makes sense. Weird, I have only rarely encountered broken 3.5mm sockets over the many years of Eurorack and (ages ago) building Formant modulars.

4th, a similar thing with the clock input of the S&H, it sometimes doesn't 'clock' until I press on the panel a bit in that corner. Also here, no contact in the break-contact in the socket, but if I wiggle or push the socket a bit it does work.

So, nothing that precludes hours of wiggling but I'd rather have everything as it should, obviously. So to my questions-
Does anyone have part nrs and addresses where to get the sliders (100K log/audio if I'm correct, white LED)? I found some on ebay but the price incl shipment is more than 10% of what I aid for the synth... similar sliders cost a few euro normally.

Also, is it correct that one snapped-off led on a slider causes 4 or 5 other leds to fail?

Finally, as for the sockets, I wasn't able to find any that look the same (vertical mount, no screw thread, black with a little circular metal inset). Anyone have part nrs and/or tips to fix them maybe?

Many thanks in advance for any help and suggestions!

Howdy, and meh, fell down the stairs, eh?

Sliders are Bourns pal compatible, I need to check which size exactly, and yes, one led gone means several others in conjunction go blind too . Once it’s back in, they come on again!

Interrupted jack socket normal king could be related to external shock too. I don’t know the type but could desolder some from an old Neutron or so and send them, if need be. They’re not the nicest soldering experience but hey… alternatively, if mixed aesthetics don’t bother you, get some cliff 3,5mm sockets p, switched mono. They fit really well into the pcb holes., which are a tad larger than standard Eurorack.

[Otto L]

Hey Maffez, thanks for the speedy response! The seller i bought it from did say a power adapter fell on it and snapped the slider, maybe the shock upset the 2 sockets... Still weird. Thanks for the tip on Cliff sockets, will try and see whether i can get them. Do you have an address for the Bourns sliders and/or the sockets? Mouser seems to have them, but shipment costs are like 5x the cost of the sliders...
TIA, Maarten

[Bata]

After about half a year with the barp the one mod I'm fiending for is CV over slider LED brightness. Does anyone know if this is possible or how difficult it would be?

[KSS]

@Bata
I thought the Xmas tree B2600 had LED intensity control? Do they all?

Possible? Absoutely.

Difficult? For who?

From a recent post is seems B -Like the TTSH -which shouldn't be a surprise -appears to group its LEDs so you would need to control each group. If B's already got them all under control of a pot, then you need to replace -or parallel- that pot with your LED current controller to gain VC over them.

This could be hard or simple depending on the existing circuit and the status of the person attempting the mod.

Go you want to use it as an effect? Or to signify something like int CLk rate <--I thought this was already in there?

To show modulations?

Many questions arise in attempting to answer yours.

[Bata]

I just want more blinking lights. I would like to take the envelope follower out and have random patches affecting the brightness. If its possible to do separate CV ins for different slider groups that would be cooler than one CV in for all lights.

I know a guy who mods and fixes synths and he should be able to do something like this if it's possible.

[hammerhead]

Meh, beginners. I want the B 26 to change each mod index slider's LED color depending on what signals I patch to that input *and* according to the slider's setting. At the very least, bipolar red & green for AC and only red for DC while brightness indicates index (now that's a linguistic curiosity). But even better would be to include a change into retina-melting blue for clipping, of course. I also want all the initial offset sliders to tell me in morse code what frequency they're set to when I prompt the synth to by slapping it close to the reverb tank. When I patch input to input, I want the slider to change to white, and the power LED should morse me when I patched an out to an out. Finally, when I interpatch the B with my modular without attaching a 1" solid steel bar to both units, I want the power LED to morse "Hinton".

It's good the B doesn't have through-zero FM and wavefolding because I would require violet and pink LEDs for those but that would ruin the classic look.

[Otto L]

Howdy, and meh, fell down the stairs, eh?

Sliders are Bourns pal compatible, I need to check which size exactly, and yes, one led gone means several others in conjunction go blind too . Once it’s back in, they come on again!

Interrupted jack socket normal king could be related to external shock too. I don’t know the type but could desolder some from an old Neutron or so and send them, if need be. They’re not the nicest soldering experience but hey… alternatively, if mixed aesthetics don’t bother you, get some cliff 3,5mm sockets p, switched mono. They fit really well into the pcb holes., which are a tad larger than standard Eurorack.

Maffez, I think the Bourns part number for the broken slider would be PTL45-15W0-104A2, is that correct you reckon? The "W' indicates the color of the LED so if I could source white 2x3mm leds then I could replace it if e.g. only orange versions are available (as they seem to be at Mouser for example)). The one thing I am not sure of is the A2 at the end, this indicates the characteristic and this is marked as "audio" by Mouser... there is however also a PTL45-15O0-104A3... Any idea which would be the right one?

As for the other leds, as the contacts are still visible in the snapped-off lever, I touched them with a 3 mm red led - the other mixer slider led turned on but the vcf and initial gain ones did not. Weird, maybe the power consumption of the red LED messes with the other two?

As for the jack socket, I got a luminous idea (still have to do it though) - I will swap the socket with an "output" socket, e.g. the RM out, as the breaker contact isn't used there. That should be feasible I reckon. Did you say they are difficult to (de)solder?

[Maffez]

Howdy, and meh, fell down the stairs, eh?

Sliders are Bourns pal compatible, I need to check which size exactly, and yes, one led gone means several others in conjunction go blind too . Once it’s back in, they come on again!

Interrupted jack socket normal king could be related to external shock too. I don’t know the type but could desolder some from an old Neutron or so and send them, if need be. They’re not the nicest soldering experience but hey… alternatively, if mixed aesthetics don’t bother you, get some cliff 3,5mm sockets p, switched mono. They fit really well into the pcb holes., which are a tad larger than standard Eurorack.

Maffez, I think the Bourns part number for the broken slider would be PTL45-15W0-104A2, is that correct you reckon? The "W' indicates the color of the LED so if I could source white 2x3mm leds then I could replace it if e.g. only orange versions are available (as they seem to be at Mouser for example)). The one thing I am not sure of is the A2 at the end, this indicates the characteristic and this is marked as "audio" by Mouser... there is however also a PTL45-15O0-104A3... Any idea which would be the right one?

As for the other leds, as the contacts are still visible in the snapped-off lever, I touched them with a 3 mm red led - the other mixer slider led turned on but the vcf and initial gain ones did not. Weird, maybe the power consumption of the red LED messes with the other two?

As for the jack socket, I got a luminous idea (still have to do it though) - I will swap the socket with an "output" socket, e.g. the RM out, as the breaker contact isn't used there. That should be feasible I reckon. Did you say they are difficult to (de)solder?

These might work - sorry I don’t have a 2600 here atm and it’s been a while/never changed any four bourns parts. If 45 slider travel, then yep. Stupid me, dunno how a3 is different to A2 for the bourns. A2 i guess r get one each, just in case. And yes, separate leds an be used and using a different colour usually makes that one brighter/duller but I also remember them not lighting up (plus, check that you put ‘em in the right way round).fingers crossed!

The sockets are tough to desolder with an iron, at least for me. Single lose pins that are held together by the plastic housing - this principle makes them more resilient as for physical stress but they suck a lot of heat and you need to be careful when pulling them out. Can be done with patience though and if you have a desoldering gun, much easier.

[Happiness Forever]

Meh, beginners. I want the B…..

+1

[KSS]

dunno how a3 is different to A2 for the bourns. A2 i guess r get one each, just in case.

Here's the difference. I haven't been following close enough to know which slider is being replaced.

As one example, A2 would be better for an EG's A,D,R because it gives smaller change through the first half of travel. Making short timings easier to adjust.

[Maffez]

dunno how a3 is different to A2 for the bourns. A2 i guess r get one each, just in case.

Here's the difference. I haven't been following close enough to know which slider is being replaced.

As one example, A2 would be better for an EG's A,D,R because it gives smaller change through the first half of travel. Making short timings easier to adjust.

Ace! That’s the chart I was too lazy to look up it’s for the mixer, so rather a3 then, I guess. (Didn’t measure the Behringer tapers, but yeah, we talked about their curves some time back).

[Neither]

Hey all, hopefully this is the right place to post this. I have a Behringer 2600 and I currently have a lovely two voice sequence playing via pitch and gate outputs of two tracks on the Sq-64. I also have a mod cv output for each of the two tracks on the SQ-64 and i want to begin exploring the mod cv now. So my question is, what should I begin modulating on the 2600 with these? Any tips etc. thanks in advance.

If you are sequencing through midi you can send a CV sequence to the portamento footswitch in on the back. If you are sequencing your main notes through CV this won't work as the external CV's aren't affected by the portamento. When I tried this I had to leave the voltage high for no glide and low on the steps I wanted to glide.

I did a video recently showing some modulation of the filter, sync osc, and portamento from external CV

Sounds great! Could you please give some more details about sending a CV sequence to the portamento footswitch in on the back? Do you use a S-trig cable and max. 3.3 volts or something like that?

Here https://maffez.com/?page_id=1473 it says that:

The jack sockets for portamento on and interval latch on the back of the 2600 are meant for use with footswitches, yet you can creatively “misuse” this. When plugging a cable, the tip carries 3,3V, which, when grounded, engages portamento/interval latch. So, when using an s-trigger converter (for instance the strig cable offered by Doepfer), you can sequence porta on/off and interval latch (I didn’t test with the doepfer but just pulled the cable tip to ground manually).

[Bata]

Sounds great! Could you please give some more details about sending a CV sequence to the portamento footswitch in on the back? Do you use a S-trig cable and max. 3.3 volts or something like that?

Pretty sure I plugged a standard 1/4"TS cable into it and put the voltage to 5 volts for no glide and 0 volts for glide. I can mess around later today and let you know.

[Bata]

Sounds great! Could you please give some more details about sending a CV sequence to the portamento footswitch in on the back? Do you use a S-trig cable and max. 3.3 volts or something like that?

Pretty sure I plugged a standard 1/4"TS cable into it and put the voltage to 5 volts for no glide and 0 volts for glide. I can mess around later today and let you know.

I did a quick video that I'll upload later today or tonight showing how it works but basically if you are using an 8 step sequence to the glide 5 volts will be no glide and 0 volts will be glide but the step you set to 0 volts won't glide the next step will glide. So you want the change between 0 to 5 volts to be on the step before the one you want to glide. I'm usually using this technique for random glides because if you want specific glides at specific times you can play it on the portamento button.

[Bata]

[Bata]

double post..

[Bata]

triple post... I think the forum was screwy earlier.. might as well make use of these extra posts..