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Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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Flounderguts
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Flounderguts »

Gorgeous build!

I really like the brass screw/cup washer pads with the (homemade?) wooden knobs. I think the choice of vibrato depth and voice range are also the most fun mods! Of course, I also really like tweaking the release time...

What is the "brightness?" I noticed there were no LEDs, so...?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by LegWyne »

Holy smokes that is one attractive DIY project ordaleem! I think my favourite yet, love the layout and design choices.

I just had a quick look at the blogpost on your website (hope you don't mind but I attached an image from the post that is descriptive) looks like you just wired up all the mods directly to the switches without any additional strip boarding or pcbs? The woodwork on that case is impressive too. I am feeling inspired after seeing your build and might have to take a crack at resurrecting my non-working Lyra 8 soon. Mind if I ask how you did the face plate? Would be great to have access to design docs as I had intended to do a very similar layout and mod collection for my own (no A/R mods, more compact)

LFO Out and Clock Out would also be very useful, I don't recall finding notes for those in the suggested mod docs, have I missed something how did you achieve this?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by ordaleem »

Thanks for the kind words, Flouderguts and LegWyne! I surprise myself sometimes.
Flounderguts wrote: Mon Jun 21, 2021 11:33 pm What is the "brightness?" I noticed there were no LEDs, so...?
The brightness is the distortion LPF cap selector mod. The LEDs are just under the panel graphic (power above "brightness" knob, and LFO above the "and/or" switch) so they show dimly when on.
LegWyne wrote: Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:52 am looks like you just wired up all the mods directly to the switches without any additional strip boarding or pcbs?
Correct! The switches in the off position (down) are wired to the original value components. I mounted the mods on some thin flashing metal to keep them relatively organized yet separate while working on them (that's the brown around the mods in the picture you posted).
Mind if I ask how you did the face plate?
I basically did what Ray Wilson did. I designed it in inkscape using the provided panel graphic as a foundation, then I ordered a sheet of aluminum at the designed dimensions. I used a printout as a drill guide, and a stepped drill bit in a drill press for the holes. The graphic is an uncoated (I love matte everything) printout on architectural-grade paper. I'd do something thicker if I could go back in time, but I'm happy with it.
LFO Out and Clock Out would also be very useful, I don't recall finding notes for those in the suggested mod docs, have I missed something how did you achieve this?
I found the schematic for this posted by rationale_music in this thread here. I added a buffer and voltage drop which you can kind of see in the picture you posted--a bit of stripboard attached to the wild and free I/O pcb. Now that I've had some experience with this machine it'd be great to have a triangle LFO out as well...

Your build is inoperable, LegWyne? Do you have a scope to poke around with?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by LegWyne »

Thanks that's all good info! The buffer + voltage drop you added was to avoid a 12v/5v switch + voltage divider? I'd missed the LFO mods previously, with those that basically completes my ideal featureset.

Yeah I managed to cook my build when debugging a grounding issue on completion late at night by absent mindedly connecting the I/O ribbon connector to the main board the wrong way round before powering up. I removed and replaced all the active components which only ended up restoring half the functionality. No access to a scope, drill press or woodwork/metalwork space atm so thought I'd leave it a bit longer and take another crack it at later in the year. I did end up buying a factory lyra 8 to use in the meantime so will use that to compare when I get round to this (I'll sell it once I get the modded DIY build working. I think I'll basically copy your approach when the time comes and build quite a similar enclosure/panel.

After using my factory lyra for much of the year tho I am still also seriously thinking about a midi gate mod with an arpeggiator built in. Would really open up the device I think. Something using an arduino and transistors that is usb powered. I'm picturing a stripboard layout that attaches to the thumbscrews internally that runs to a panel mounted usb c port which shouldn't be too hard to put together. I got no coding skills tho so would have to try and use XOD IDE or something similar. I also own an Axoloti I could use and find it quite easy to program using their patching environment, and it would take no time to out a working patch together, but thats overkill at $200 a board and I have another project in mind for it.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Bamboombaps »

I've finally got a panel and enclosure that match! The 12 inch Hammond box and a PCB panel I got made up. Some small blotches on the panel but will be inconsequential once it's all dressed up.
IMG_20210624_154106.jpg
IMG_20210624_154133.jpg
IMG_20210624_154100.jpg
I have a couple left over if anyone's interested drop me a line £25

Also i've been diggin around this thread but I can't seem to find the last peice of my Lyra 8 puzzle- the i\o port drill template. Where is this information?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Bamboombaps »

Nvm found it
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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Bamboombaps wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:35 pm Also i've been diggin around this thread but I can't seem to find the last peice of my Lyra 8 puzzle- the i\o port drill template. Where is this information?
There are a few files for case drawings floating around that would have the proper spacing for a template. But I did it caveman style
IMG_20210624_202955.jpg
Perfect template! :sb:
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Bamboombaps »

steviet wrote: Sat Jun 26, 2021 1:37 pm
Bamboombaps wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:35 pm Also i've been diggin around this thread but I can't seem to find the last peice of my Lyra 8 puzzle- the i\o port drill template. Where is this information?
There are a few files for case drawings floating around that would have the proper spacing for a template. But I did it caveman style

IMG_20210624_202955.jpg

Perfect template! :sb:
AMAZING! i wish id thought of doing this instead of going through the rage inducing multiple prints trying to match the printoff with the holes the right sizes! heres the image i used if anyone is interested -
206714002_175796957766326_6207140259970089069_n.jpg
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Jamisnemo »

Bamboombaps wrote: Sat Jun 26, 2021 2:03 pm
AMAZING! i wish id thought of doing this instead of going through the rage inducing multiple prints trying to match the printoff with the holes the right sizes! heres the image i used if anyone is interested -

206714002_175796957766326_6207140259970089069_n.jpg
Ah! Thank you! I'm most of the way through my build and have been wondering how well I'd be able to mess up the positioning of those holes!

My current blocker is not having 4x C100k stereo pots for the modulation controls as they're sold out everywhere (or nearly $6 a piece on ebay which feels wrong).

Anyone know if it's safe to split each of the modulation controls out to their own C100k mono pot? (i.e. 8 pods instead of 4 grouped modulation controls, 12/34/56/78)
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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Jamisnemo wrote: Sun Jun 27, 2021 12:46 am Anyone know if it's safe to split each of the modulation controls out to their own C100k mono pot? (i.e. 8 pods instead of 4 grouped modulation controls, 12/34/56/78)
It would be a different instrument. You could probably get away with an A100K dual pot...your max mod would just be twisted all the way left, instead of right.

I've thought about swapping half my mod and sharp pots so that they twist in to one another, as the layout can be a bit counter-intuitive anyway.

Having said that, even a linear taper pot would be ok...just different when it comes to feel...but all the same sounds should be possible.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Jamisnemo »

Flounderguts wrote: Sun Jun 27, 2021 9:41 am It would be a different instrument. You could probably get away with an A100K dual pot...your max mod would just be twisted all the way left, instead of right.
Ah, yeah, I figured that might be the best bet until the C100k's are available somewhere. Some A100k duals showed up today and that'll at least get the build done enough to enjoy.

Thanks for the input!

And for the panel! I'll post photos when it's done.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by the_laconic »

Jamisnemo wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 12:15 am Ah, yeah, I figured that might be the best bet until the C100k's are available somewhere. Some A100k duals showed up today and that'll at least get the build done enough to enjoy.
C100k's are the anti-log ones, right? Tayda just notified me that they're in stock. (I had ordered some from Small Bear in the meantime.)
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by steviet »

I got a question for yawl DIY LYRA-8ers out there.

I purchased what I thought to be a DPST switch with a cute LED ring around it, but as it turns out it is a SPST. I have already completed the build with a DPST switch and it was all groovy, and I just wanted to double check my thinking here so I don't electrocute myself or anyone else.

I am going to use this switch, it looks like this:

IMG_20210702_130547.jpg

The + and - seem to be for the LED, and the ON ON poles become connected when you flip the switch. So, my plan is to:

1. Wire the DC + from the barrel connector to the top "ON" terminal
2. Wire the DC + from the I/O PCB to the bottom "ON" terminal
3. Wire the DC - directly from the barrel connector to the I/O PCB DC -
4. Wire the DC + and the DC - from the barrel connector to the "+" and "-" terminals respectively on the switch
5. Ground the DC - to the aluminum hammond enclosure as well

Does this sound safe and make sense? I am 99% sure this is the path to take, but I get nervous when it comes to wiring up the power and I'm not 100% sure. Your thoughts are appreciated! :party:


the_laconic wrote: Wed Jun 30, 2021 9:39 pm
Jamisnemo wrote: Tue Jun 29, 2021 12:15 am Ah, yeah, I figured that might be the best bet until the C100k's are available somewhere. Some A100k duals showed up today and that'll at least get the build done enough to enjoy.
C100k's are the anti-log ones, right? Tayda just notified me that they're in stock. (I had ordered some from Small Bear in the meantime.)
Yes C100K's are anti-log!
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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steviet wrote: Fri Jul 02, 2021 12:14 pm

The + and - seem to be for the LED, and the ON ON poles become connected when you flip the switch. So, my plan is to:

1. Wire the DC + from the barrel connector to the top "ON" terminal
2. Wire the DC + from the I/O PCB to the bottom "ON" terminal
3. Wire the DC - directly from the barrel connector to the I/O PCB DC -
4. Wire the DC + and the DC - from the barrel connector to the "+" and "-" terminals respectively on the switch
5. Ground the DC - to the aluminum hammond enclosure as well

Does this sound safe and make sense? I am 99% sure this is the path to take, but I get nervous when it comes to wiring up the power and I'm not 100% sure. Your thoughts are appreciated! :party:
As I see it, you want the switch to illuminate when you turn the power on.
Wire the center + from the DC to one pole of the switch...and the second pole to the IO board.
Pull power for the LED illumination from the far side of the power conditioning on the IO...where it says 12V+ going to the main board (assuming it is a 12 V illuminated switch!)
Run the - pole of the illumination to the ground on the I/O.

DON'T wire the I/O ground to the chassis ground! They are meant to be isolated (there is a lonely 5.1 ohm resistor that will fry if you tie the two "grounds" together.

It can be confusing when we call all these things "ground," when they may actually be chassis ground, mains ground, virtual ground, or 0V!!

If you want the switch to be lit all the time, run the power for the illumination from the center positive, and run the negative pole to the sleeve...then it will stay lit as long as power is plugged in...
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by steviet »

Flounderguts wrote: Fri Jul 02, 2021 11:08 pm As I see it, you want the switch to illuminate when you turn the power on.
Wire the center + from the DC to one pole of the switch...and the second pole to the IO board.
Pull power for the LED illumination from the far side of the power conditioning on the IO...where it says 12V+ going to the main board (assuming it is a 12 V illuminated switch!)
Run the - pole of the illumination to the ground on the I/O.

DON'T wire the I/O ground to the chassis ground! They are meant to be isolated (there is a lonely 5.1 ohm resistor that will fry if you tie the two "grounds" together.

It can be confusing when we call all these things "ground," when they may actually be chassis ground, mains ground, virtual ground, or 0V!!

If you want the switch to be lit all the time, run the power for the illumination from the center positive, and run the negative pole to the sleeve...then it will stay lit as long as power is plugged in...
As always, thank you! I don't think I'd have an operating Lyra-8 if it wasn't for you my good man. :sb:
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by d3n5ity »

Recently bought a used factory built LYRA-8 and have a problem with the fast setting on Voice 6. I figured someone here may have some insight.

When voice 6 is triggered it only has a slow release. The Fast switch has no affect on voice 6 but works fine on voice 5. Any pointers as to where to look in the circuit?

Thank you!
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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d3n5ity wrote: Sat Jul 03, 2021 2:54 pm Recently bought a used factory built LYRA-8 and have a problem with the fast setting on Voice 6. I figured someone here may have some insight.

When voice 6 is triggered it only has a slow release. The Fast switch has no affect on voice 6 but works fine on voice 5. Any pointers as to where to look in the circuit?

Thank you!
It's going to be a bit tough, as the factory unit is constructed a bit differently than the DIY version.

I'd start by removing all the knobs and then the switch and pot nuts. Then you will have to open it up and remove the main board, and finally lift out the control board.

Chances are that you will find a broken solder either at the switch, or where the slow release circuit goes from the control board to the main. I'd budget at least 45 min to an hour just to get it apart properly. The circuit going from the fast/slow switch is pretty obvious, but let me know if you need more detail.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by d3n5ity »

Thanks Flounderguts! Didnt even need to take off the knobs to start checking continuity. I found when the switch is in the fast setting I dont get continuity from voice 6 side of the switch to the "fast" soldering pad. Every other voice I get continuity on both sides of the switch. I reflowed solder to switch already, Do you believe it could just be a bad switch? I have a few extra switches from another project laying around.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Flounderguts »

It *could* be a bad switch! My money is on a cold solder, though!

The switches on the factory unit aren't a part I'm familiar with. If you do get it apart, I'd be interested to track those down :yay:
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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Flounderguts wrote: Fri Jul 02, 2021 11:08 pm DON'T wire the I/O ground to the chassis ground! They are meant to be isolated (there is a lonely 5.1 ohm resistor that will fry if you tie the two "grounds" together.
This is confusing. The DC jack I was planning on using is a A-844 from Tayda Electronics (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... mount.html). With that jack, the negative shield of the DC barrel plug will ground directly to any metal chassis it is installed through.

Does that mean using this jack AND the large chassis grounding pad on the I/O board at the same time going to fry that 5.1ohm resistor near the chassis mounting screw on the main board?

I'm tempted to just not use the chassis grounding pad but I'm not sure what the best approach is here...

EDIT: P.S. I'm using one of your PCB panels...
Last edited by Jamisnemo on Mon Jul 05, 2021 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Jamisnemo »

d3n5ity wrote: Sat Jul 03, 2021 2:54 pm Recently bought a used factory built LYRA-8 and have a problem with the fast setting on Voice 6. I figured someone here may have some insight.
Haha! I saw that unit on craigslist but couldn't swing the drive. I'm also curious about what the fix will be.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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Jamisnemo wrote: Mon Jul 05, 2021 5:26 pm
Flounderguts wrote: Fri Jul 02, 2021 11:08 pm DON'T wire the I/O ground to the chassis ground! They are meant to be isolated (there is a lonely 5.1 ohm resistor that will fry if you tie the two "grounds" together.
This is confusing. The DC jack I was planning on using is a A-844 from Tayda Electronics (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... mount.html). With that jack, the negative shield of the DC barrel plug will ground directly to any metal chassis it is installed through.

Does that mean using this jack AND the large chassis grounding pad on the I/O board at the same time going to fry that 5.1ohm resistor near the chassis mounting screw on the main board?

I'm tempted to just not use the chassis grounding pad but I'm not sure what the best approach is here...

EDIT: P.S. I'm using one of your PCB panels...
Yes, using a jack like that is how I fried my *first* 5.1 ohm resistor!

If you look closely at your IO board, you will see that the big grounding pad *is* isolated from the 0v/board ground by it's own 5.1 ohm resistor, which sits between the OUT and the EXT IN jacks. (The other one is on the main PCB, just under the 510 pf distortion capacitor) The main reason to use that ground pad is that it noticeably reduces noise on the headphone output...still noisy as fuck, but bearable!

If you don't plan to use the instrument as a standalone, I'd just leave the phones jack out. If you DO put it in, don't use one that grounds the jack to the chassis...make sure the jack sleeve is connected only to the headphone ground, and not the chassis ground.

Since I use my Lyra 8+ DIY in my 19" rack, the wall wart power supply quickly became an issue, as they do not play nice with the (tightly spaced) outlets on my power conditioners. I bought an AC/DC pinned power supply, and soldered it directly to the pins on the IO board. I put a fuse in the AC line in, but now I have a nice svelte power plug in the back (robbed from an old Apple AirStation) and I don't have to worry about weird grounding issues and DC barrel plugs! I had issues with the power supply pulling/falling out of the jack when I tilted the rack that it's living in.
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by Bodo1967 »

Tnunnery wrote: Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:42 pm 3. I used these thumbscrews: https://www.accu.co.uk/en/knurled-thumb ... T-M3-12-A1. 10mm would have also worked.
Since I am about to order thumbscrews for the Lyra-8:

Did anyone actually use M3 * 10 and can definitely confirm they are suitable (not too short?). I could get these fairly easily off German Ebay, but the store in question doesn't carry M3 * 12 or even M3 *16.
... why buy it for $100 when you can build it yourself for $150?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

Post by the_laconic »

Main board is done except for the shields. Do I just attach these using plain old pin headers? Solder at both ends?
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Re: Soma - LYRA-8 DIY Kit

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the_laconic wrote: Tue Jul 13, 2021 11:24 am Main board is done except for the shields. Do I just attach these using plain old pin headers? Solder at both ends?
Yup. :tu:
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