ginkosynthese grains as DIY soon available!

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sync24
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Post by sync24 »

Just built one of these - very easy :tu:
and love the Cereals patch.
thank you :)
milkyjoe
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Post by milkyjoe »

thanx for the advice:tu:

I was also just thinking
The snazz fx ardcore module has a fw/sketch AND utility app to import your own samples. I can't wait to experiment with the different possibilities(I'm away from my system now) :waah:

I have had fun results with various arduino based modules just trying all the different code for dsp for the many arduino modules available. Sometimes doesnt do anything, sometimes works and is fun...


I don't know how to code at all, but i want to learn how to modify code to switch function access/parameters/samples/etc.. around within the hardware u are using. Shouldnt have to understand coding to make these changes with a proper instruction (& chip programmers) it seems.

It really seems theres alot of cool open source code out there to run on alot these arduino modules, even if you don't know how to code, it seems possible to learn how to cut and paste pieces of open source code to make modifications right ? (i'm expecting no reply for no reason ha ha)
xtinct
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Post by xtinct »

I was surprised on how easy the build was. However, the output doesn't seem to be at modular level. :( The website mentions bypassing the filter to bump up the output and clarity, but gives no specifics.

Is it safe to assume this is done by placing a jumper wire someplace on the pcb?
milkyjoe
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Post by milkyjoe »

I need to know this too. Why does he mention the lpf, but does not say anywhere how to install it ???
Grumskiz
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Post by Grumskiz »

I have built a simple buffer for my Grains module and described it here:
viewtopic.php?p=1959978#1959978
milkyjoe
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Post by milkyjoe »

thanks for sharing thatgrumskiz

i dont have an issue with modular levels with this. i just want to know how to take advantage of the lpf that ginko speaks of. I would like to a/b the differences to see if its worth a toggle switch.

It may be something obvious on the pcb, but i have not found ?
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Grumskiz
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Post by Grumskiz »

On the PCB look at the trace from the Arduino Nano to the Output jack.
Along the trace you can see a resistor (R8) and an electrolytic capacitor. These two components form a passive filter. If you take the signal directly from the Arduino it is unfiltered, but I don't know whether this is absolutely safe to do.
xtinct
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Post by xtinct »

This is a quote from the ginkosynthese product page.

"The low-pass filter on the PCB can be bypassed if you want. Bypassing the filter provides more clarity and a slightly louder output but more artifacts in the sound."

So I assume bypassing this passive low-pass is completely safe if one wants to do it.

I am thinking two wires and a on/off switch to bypass it when desired for alittle more Db boost. The buffer circuit seems cool tho, wish I knew how to interpret simple electronic schematics.

A pic of the mod would be greatly beneficial.
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a773
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Post by a773 »

s'mores wrote:Fixed the Input 3 issue. The jacks are switching jacks, so plugging in a cable breaks the connection between (if I remember correctly) the top and middle pins of the jack. The middle pin doesn't seem to serve any function other than causing problems, so I desoldered the jack, cut off the middle pin flush with the body of the jack, and soldered the other two pins back in place with the resistor across the legs. Works great now!
Today I got so sick of the high pitched squeak with nothing in input 3, that I decided to go ahead with the fix (the simple resistor across legs, as mentioned by Jan, didn't work for me).

So here are some pictures. I added electrical tape to make sure the cut leg didn't touch the old joint. After putting it back together, I found that with the panel screwed back on, pressing the panel and PCB together made the squeak come back. Might be because of this being a new version grains with alu panel, which might re-establish the problematic connection. So I did a bit of insulation below the bolt on input 3 with electrical tape. The squeak is still back if I press the board against the PBC, but it's completely stable in the case, so I'll leave it for now...

Image
Image
Image
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gluepet
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Post by gluepet »

About to embark on the grains as my first DIY build. If anyone can post a finished front/back pcb shot, it will be much appreciated! :eurosmoke:
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Yidam
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Post by Yidam »

I didn't solder C4 lying flat on the PCB like on the drawing but standing up like C6. Does anyone know how that would change things ?
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hex
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Post by hex »

Pardon the dumb question since this is my very first DIY and I know zip about electronics. Everything else is clearly spelled out on the PCB but I don't see "78L05", where is it?

Here's a pic of the instructions and the PCB along with what I believe to be the item in question:

Image

I suspect that it's the three holes between C8 and C9 and below R9 with the arc indicating the facing of the item, though I'd rather not proceed on just an assumption.

Is that correct?
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Crashlander42
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Post by Crashlander42 »

Yes. The crescent shaped footprint.

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hex
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Post by hex »

Thanks. Just finished. I hope it works!
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snaper
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Post by snaper »

snaper wrote:Do you know Guys how to change PWM out pin 11 to pin 5 or 6?
I've tried to simply change the pin number, without luck :(
Nobody?

I have a fully DIY version in Buchla format.
My module could run Euroduino and Ginko sketches as well.
The only problem that the Ginko sketches outputs on pin11, but my main boosted CV outs are pin 5 and 6...
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a773
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Post by a773 »

I'm a bit confused, sorry. Are you takling abort software og hardware? Not sure I can help either way :party:
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snaper
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Post by snaper »

Sorry, software, but figured out.
If you'd like to use other PWM outs, you have to re-write the PWM part of the code.
Pin 11 is the pair of Pin 3, you need to modify only a few pieces in the code, into this :

// Changing these will also requires rewriting audioOn()
// Output is on pin 11
#define PWM_PIN 3
#define PWM_VALUE OCR2B
#define LED_PIN 13
#define LED_PORT PORTB
#define LED_BIT 5
#define PWM_INTERRUPT TIMER2_OVF_vect

void audioOn() {
// Set up PWM to 31.25kHz, phase accurate
TCCR2A = _BV(COM2B1) | _BV(WGM20);
TCCR2B = _BV(CS20);
TIMSK2 = _BV(TOIE2);
}
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Risc_Terilia
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Post by Risc_Terilia »

Someone gave me two of these because he was dissatisfied with the output volume but I can't get either of them to make a sound. I only have one Arduino which I'm swapping between, I've tried various firmwares, I'm using the wavetable one as a basis because it should drone without any input. Anyone got any ideas as to the problem please?
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jmagin
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Post by jmagin »

A low output volume is to be expected, this is why the separate mixer module was included with a kit of three of them. If I recall correctly the output is just a simple low-pass filtered PWM output from the AVR, so it's never going to be over about 5 volts peak-to-peak.

If you're trying various firmware, be sure you know if you are using PCB v1 or v2. Beyond that I don't have any particularly good ideas. Does everything seem to be soldered correctly?
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Risc_Terilia
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Post by Risc_Terilia »

The modules are v2. My friend had them both working and I can't see any problems with the build.
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Selektro
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Post by Selektro »

hi all hoping someone can help me out. I bought a kit from thonk last week, delivered this morning, built over lunch, but ive spent all evening trying to get the code on it!!

So, short version of the story is 2007 macbook pro OSX 10.11 and Arduino 1.6.11. the nano disconnected from the main PCB. it wont show up in ports list. I installed the driver as the IDE was downloading.

Why is there a driver anyway if the nano is already in the IDE? i take it this nano is unofficial and has its own usb serial chip?? I did a lot with Arduino 0022 for my sequencer (avatar pic) and done a bit with ATtiny and custom files for using the older duino as isp for the tinys. I've forgotten a lot but i thought this would be easier! :bang:
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Selektro
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Post by Selektro »

ok magnifying glass out. It is a clone.

the mac driver linked on thonk and ginkosynthese site is for the 341 chip, but mine has the 340, now i don t understand chinse but it looks to me like the 340 driver is pc only. i will keep digging

seems a shame that a brand new kit in V2 came with an older OSX driverless chip

will have to try my work pc tomorrow and report back in the eve
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Selektro
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Post by Selektro »

ok so its fine on W7 work PC, great, now i have to hope it works on w10 as i will need to borrow the other halfs laptop every time i wanna try new firmware :hmm:

the mac driver doesnt work for me in both my osx's 10.5 (no driver signing) or 10.11 with either arduino 0022, 1.0.6 or 1.6.11 with the terminal code from the instructions, or through any other method. Ive tried the older driver, newer one, russian, chinese, still nothing. open to ideas........
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snaper
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Post by snaper »

Selektro wrote:ok so its fine on W7 work PC, great, now i have to hope it works on w10 as i will need to borrow the other halfs laptop every time i wanna try new firmware :hmm:

the mac driver doesnt work for me in both my osx's 10.5 (no driver signing) or 10.11 with either arduino 0022, 1.0.6 or 1.6.11 with the terminal code from the instructions, or through any other method. Ive tried the older driver, newer one, russian, chinese, still nothing. open to ideas........
You have to enable something in your mac, I'm not sure.
Search on youtube for CH340 mac instructions.
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Selektro
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Post by Selektro »

yeah i've done the sudo command listed in giko instructions in terminal and restarted in both osxs

all the vids ive looked at so far just seem to mention that same sudo command as the only instruction that isnt obvious. But unfortunately hasn't worked for me.
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