You want to buy a ____? Don't.

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pieter
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by pieter »

/\/\/\/ wrote: Wed Nov 17, 2021 9:19 am Does anyone know of some resources (youtube, books, webpages) that have these kind of patching ideas? Not necessarily theory-oriented, but similar kind of recipes? Probably searchable in the forum but perhaps relevant here as well.
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Transistor »

rayultine wrote: Tue Nov 16, 2021 11:29 pm you want to have free time to try all of radiokaola's magic tricks ____ ? You don't.
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Elahrairah »

Hey wow this is really cool to have the tips and tricks written out. I’m going to have to study the thread.

Been making building block modules recently so I have a pile of mixers and dividers and such on hand. Need to review the thread for ideas of more utilities.
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Here is the best one yet. ;)

T-Shaped Piece of Wood out of Differently Shaped Something(s) using Clever Engineering and a Saw
Let's be honest: sometimes you do need yourself a good old T-shaped piece of wood: be it for using as a parrot nest perch or fixing the T-shaped hole in the wall so that no gusts of wind give you chills or otherwise disturb mid-sleep. :animal:

Of course, you can look up some tutorials online if you do not want to shell for something as trivial as a 17,999-mile ride to the nearest K-Mart out of Arctic where you happily reside and downshift for a living. I mean, hell, if you are particularly desperate, you could even buy two 2x4 pieces of wood on Craigslist and glue or otherwise join the two together into a nice “T” shape. On the other hand, this also would require a Youtube tutorial, and now that corporate heads over at Google have turned the dislike count off, you can't even quickly estimate which of those suck particularly hard and which are decently OK'ish (at sucking :roll:).

If we're about to get real for a second, so far there has not been a single “T-shaped piece of wood out of ___” tutorial: the disturbingly frightening situation for those of us into DIY who really want to up our skills, but are restrained by lack of good educational literature and VHS, Blu-Ray, and DVD crash courses. :doh:

This is the first NASA-certified tutorial of quickly obtaining a T-shaped piece of wood out of spare basement balcony miscellania: proven to work even in space (like charm) and broken down to you THE EASIEST WAY by your Belarusian bud & fellow modular synthesist who's way too anti-greedy to charge you $759.25 AUD for it (the initial worth-every-penny value of the enlightening IQ-booster tutorial system 9000 presented to you below in the form of OG Director's Cut XXL Deluxe Anniversary EDITION!).

To get a noteworthily fucking awesome T-shaped piece of wood that would sure enough attract girls (or female beavers, for beaver readers among us, long for “beavereaders” – Oxford Word of the Year 1975) and skyrocket your social ranking, you'll only need four things: hands (1, 2), X-shaped piece of wood lying nearby amidst defunct rat cages, spontaneously self-combusting underwear (an impulse buy), and family photo albums (3), and a saw (4). Make note: you cannot use a saw waveform for this, you need an actual phooken' saw that you can hand someone or be handed, or behead some body (sorry, somebody not “some body”: bodies don't have heads! :tu:) or be beheaded by or with help of or via.

Take an X-shaped piece of wood and rotate it CW by 45° (rotating by CCW is possible too, but yields worse results in our experience, confirmed by test groups and aspiring aspirin-allergic horse astrologists* – *horse astrologist is an astrologist providing prognosises for horses and horse-sized ponies, including but not excluding pony-sized horses and pony-sized ponzi scheme midget horse practitioners ). After this, cut off wooden promontory protuberance above the “T”, effectively turning an “X” into a “-T”.

Almost done now. Take the “-” and put aside to sort of “invert” the minus-T-shaped piece of, ahem, art, into the T-shaped piece you were so after.

Congra-fooken-tulations: you really did something meaningful today and rose above the mere “eat-and-shit” no-T-shaped-things-producing underage greenhorn layabouts that can only sweep-and-shoot tiktoks as well as overage kleptomaniac alcoholics whose sport master-grade hand tremors allow no equably straight and steady cuts for the life of them and whatsoever, as such only turning X-shaped wooden things (Xs) into more asymmetrically lopsided Xs as well as quality-reducing museum exhibit (do not confuse with: xzibit 8-))-grade ice axes all the way down into the “too-shoddy-for-a-slop-container” ice axe category, making them welcome in the museums under whichever circumstances since then absolutely not. :omg:

I hope this was helpful and enlightening.

:slapfight:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Affordable Granular Synthesis for DSP-Allergic &/or Barely-Earning Kidults
Patch the sound to be processed to VCA In. Square VCO to VCA CV. Adjusting Pulse Width is your single partial SIZE. To have control over the DENSITY, patch a square wave to CV'able clock divider/multiplier like 4ms PEG and then to VCA CV. Doing this would render SIZE control useless, but at higher audio rates this might not matter as much anymore. To get the no-compromise true size+density control, skip the divider whatsoever and use stepped sequences on v/oct or good old fm. You can always turn your VCO/LFO into a tap tempo-like clock generator by feeding it positive or negative voltages like 2/4/5/6/8V, for twice the tempo, whole notes into the quarters etc. To get the Beads-like SHAPE control, patch the square wave to an envelope prior to VCA CV. Pat yourself on the back: you just acquired yourself a fun miniature real-time only (no freezing) partial synthesizer that is capable of producing some cool clicks 'n cuts and gated and chopped glitchy sounds even if not at all looking or sounding like Clouds. :cloud:
Witness 60 minutes of audio-visual industrial psy-techno
jam-offering (and press like so this wipes away minecraft
videos clean from the trends and we get to see
some proper rave action there, FINALLY):

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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Wavtekt »

I found delay modules to be very versatile. Seemingly you can derive a lot of effects out of it.

Delay + LFO modulating delay time = Chorus
Delay + Notch filter with LFO modulating (Original Signal - Band pass filter) feedback to Delay = Phaser
Delay + Comb Filter with LFO modulating (Delay mixed with original Signal plus some feedback) feedback to Delay = Flanger
Delay + Delay + Delay (3-tap delay) = Reverb

This is more of a crude and over-simplified version of phaser / flanger / reverb effects using delays, a dedicated module is always better hahaha :razz:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Kosmikos »

Wavtekt wrote: Mon Nov 29, 2021 3:37 am I found delay modules to be very versatile. Seemingly you can derive a lot of effects out of it.

Delay + LFO modulating delay time = Chorus
Delay + Notch filter with LFO modulating (Original Signal - Band pass filter) feedback to Delay = Phaser
Delay + Comb Filter with LFO modulating (Delay mixed with original Signal plus some feedback) feedback to Delay = Flanger
Delay + Delay + Delay (3-tap delay) = Reverb

This is more of a crude and over-simplified version of phaser / flanger / reverb effects using delays, a dedicated module is always better hahaha :razz:
This was my point a couple of pages ago :hihi:

Also a comb filter is already a very short delay line.
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Patchcords as Guitar Strings
Take the 150 cm patch cables and cut off the connector on one side of each. Use the wire stripper to remove the plastic insulation. With one minijack/ :ripbanana: / jack remaining, you will need it on a bridge side locking in the string like a metal weight would. Make sure to braid (or braid and lacquer) the metal cables after getting rid of the insulation (or before removing it if your surname's Houdini, Blaine, or name is David).

It would also be a great idea to field the braided cables–now strings–with copper for added protection and wear-and-tear resistance, what gets in the way though is lack of actual verb “to field” in known existence. No doubt, someone like Copperfield would indeed be able to field a possible whatever (like galaxy, supersonic jet plane, artisanal guitar string, or skyscraper 8-)) with copper or solution of potassium permanganate (do not mistake for possum persimon out-of-the-gate), but he knows his craft more so than we all do. :homer: :goo:

Secure in the new strings on a head side of a guitar, tune by ear, and enjoy the tone.

Hope this was helpful, as it can't be not most obviously.

PRO TIP: use primarily no-more-working patchcables so as to not phook up the useful utensils! :tu:

PRO TIP 2: Never – and I mean this: NEVER! – crossbreed hammerhead sharks and duckbill platypuses.Won't ever end well for shit. (Trust war vet in this: I tried & I did fail. :doh: :roll:)

Now for one less useful sonic tool to use with a patchcord-stringed uke or double bass, let's get straight to:

Gated Reverb with Gates and Reverb
Patch a gate to dry/wet mix of your reverb. Nice. :party:

Alternatively, if yours has no CV:
Dry signal to input A of a crossfader. Wet to B. Set XFade to fully CCW so only dry is passing through. Bombard CV with gate sequences, optionally through a bit of slew or envelope for more natural fade-ins and outs.

And one more life-saving tip, C here:

Oscillat :homer: r as a Tuning F :lisa: rk
Tune an oscillator to A4 (440 Hz).

Patch it to a VCA controlled with an envelope.

Set the length of an envelope to match your tuning fork.

Patch VCA to a soundsystem as well as manual gate to the envelope trigger and push the button every time you need a reference tone.

Put your tuning fork in a neighbour's dumpster alongside other organic and nuclear waste you might have.

Success and well done! :cloud:

:boat: :boat:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Hi all! How y' doing, everybody? Hope everything's good in everyone's studios and houses! 8-)

For once in this thread, I want to go the other way round and not show you how to do something X module does with some cunning patch, but how to take a patch of mine and replicate it with a single knob touch on a module. :mrgreen:

The reason for this is I was reading this Intellijel Rubicon 2 vs SSF Zero Point Oscillator thread on here (must be the most interesting thread I stumbled on this year at least, if not in ever!) and from there I found out the SYMMETRY knob on Rubicon 2 does exactly the thru-zero to thru-twelve sort of juxtaposition.

This unfortunate discovery could potentially decrown me with regards to that tongue-in-cheek self-assigned “thru-one to thru-five to thru-X fm method” inventor, luckily for me I never claimed that I was (or I'd lose to Dr. S&E :razz:), only that I came up with an idea of applying that to any module (see below)!

Just wanted to give credit where due, it's cool to know this feature had already been around on a commercial module (Rubicon), and I decided to write this post specifically to draw attention to this fact, since just from the knob labelling it's hard to tell that it does thru-five, thru-seven and everything of that sort, it's not too heavily advertised of a feature, but really novel and interesting.

OUT OF INTEREST: Did you (reader of this post) know that Intellijel Rubicon had this adjustable voltage threshold moving the thru-(number) fm response initial point before?

It's good to learn new things, isn't it?

Cheers!
radiokoala wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:50 am
GuyaGuy wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 1:34 am
radiokoala wrote: Wed Aug 18, 2021 4:22 pm
Important announcement: I also invented Thru-One, Thru-Two and Thru-Five FM that you can apply to any oscillator, even those without TZFM whatsoever (or make them TZ like with FM Aid).

Do not want to toot my own soprano sax too much, but I'm pretty proud to come up with this most revolutionary thru-five fm, I will even include patch tips on cv switching between thru-three and thru-nil fm to open up tone shaping possibilities even further.
Wait, what is this? :hmm:
To be honest, I may shelve this for now, as I was contemplating turning tips from this thread into some kind of a physically touchable product (like a book, but probably something more interesting; +digital brochure as an option), so this particular patch may be the most ostentatiously attention-grabbing to sort of advertise this, as it's hands down most killer one so far (and working).

As some kind of comfort and reassurance, I will share the secondary component to it without unveiling the underlying “FM->TZFM on any oscillator” technique:

Turning your Thru-Zero modulating signal into a Thru-One to Thru-11½ 8-)

To start this off, do not let the caption fool you: there is no such thing as a “thru-zero modulation signal”, there is just a signal. The point at which it becomes TZ frequency modulator is AFTER you send it to a dedicated (labelled or not but specced as TZ) CV input. I only used this for a lack of better phrasing.

So, what is this all about? With TZFM, as you know, the wave gets inverted at zero. As such, inversion always happens at 0V, and with perfectly symmetric (horizontally, rather than vertically; so the 0 for sine wave of static frequency always occurs like XoooXooo in the drum machine or metronome) waves it is slightly too predictable of a response. Even with more complex waves like toothy wavetables, it's gonna work the same if they have this kind of visual ripple just at the top (for the added harmonics) and not throughout the whole amplitude of a wave like wavefolded signal.

Let me explain.

П_ = zoomed out example wave. zoomed in part below:

| :mmm:
|
|

The wave pictured is what would be square but with some triangley harmonics on top (what I called ripple, but better called: SCRIBBLE :lol: how do you like this, for a rhyme??)

Sent to TZFM input, inversion will only happen once: before _ & after П (17th letter of Russian alphabet, reads like “p” in “parrot”, spelled before “rrot” – now you are at 1/33 of your Russian letter recognition ;)).

On the other hand, if 0V point was not at the bottom but the top of “П”, tzfm circuitry would react to reaching it (the reference point of zero volts) SIX TIMES ALREADY making the resulting carrier oscillator wave more harmonically rich, resulting in richer sound thanks to this audio rate wave state modulation (six times faster than with the initial wave, no matter audio or LFO rate!).

The trick behind this is super simple.

Imagine the wave given as an example has max voltage of +7.7V and minimum of -7.7V, making it a 15.4V peak-to-peak. Throw it into an offset module and offset down one volt for some Thru-One fm action.

Inside the TZFM VCO it is still, of course, thru-zero, but these technicalities are beyond our interest. What interests us most is the fact that, by experimenting with different offset point, we can (and will, when using non-symmetric signals at the input!) make the resulting wave SOUND DIFFERENT – which, at the end of the day, is all that matters for us as musicians, score composers and the jolly fun-havers among us!

Up next, if you are interested to enter the Thru-Two or Thru-Four (or, God Forbid, Thru-6.66!) territories, just offset 2/4/ or six six six volta and be good.

In the case of our example, to really hear the difference, we need to offset (as you may have guessed) -7.77V to position topmost part of the “П” around 0V. With the wave of 15.4V amplitude (with possible headroom of Eurorack at around 24V, determined by PSU, summing largest numbers of respective +12V and -12V busses), offsetting it as much as minus seven point seven will asymmetrically clip it by approximately 3.4V (lowest point being -7.7 before to offsetting, and -15.4 after. bottom part will simply be clipped).

As such, you can not only shift the thru-x point at which the wave is inverted with offset, but also simultaneously experiment with pushing it into the positive or negative clipping zones to entirely change the “looks” and action of the modulator!

Of course, mixing the modulator not with DC (aka static or offset voltage) but with LFOs, EGs etc will make your Thru–X CV'able, opening up even broader territories of sonic fun and exploration! :headbang:

PS. I reserve the full rights to be the only eligible inventor of THRU-ELEVEN POINT FIVE fm synthesizer technique and have dobermanns as lawyers. Dontcha steal my shit, a process of hard brain work and fingertyping :spin:
Witness 60 minutes of audio-visual industrial psy-techno
jam-offering (and press like so this wipes away minecraft
videos clean from the trends and we get to see
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/ My electro-rap debut!! (video)
/ Analog & modular videos
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Dcramer »

radiokoala wrote: Fri Nov 19, 2021 9:05 am Here is the best one yet. ;)

T-Shaped Piece of Wood out of Differently Shaped Something(s) using Clever Engineering and a Saw
Let's be honest: sometimes you do need yourself a good old T-shaped piece of wood: be it for using as a parrot nest perch or fixing the T-shaped hole in the wall so that no gusts of wind give you chills or otherwise disturb mid-sleep. :animal:

Of course, you can look up some tutorials online if you do not want to shell for something as trivial as a 17,999-mile ride to the nearest K-Mart out of Arctic where you happily reside and downshift for a living. I mean, hell, if you are particularly desperate, you could even buy two 2x4 pieces of wood on Craigslist and glue or otherwise join the two together into a nice “T” shape. On the other hand, this also would require a Youtube tutorial, and now that corporate heads over at Google have turned the dislike count off, you can't even quickly estimate which of those suck particularly hard and which are decently OK'ish (at sucking :roll:).

If we're about to get real for a second, so far there has not been a single “T-shaped piece of wood out of ___” tutorial: the disturbingly frightening situation for those of us into DIY who really want to up our skills, but are restrained by lack of good educational literature and VHS, Blu-Ray, and DVD crash courses. :doh:

This is the first NASA-certified tutorial of quickly obtaining a T-shaped piece of wood out of spare basement balcony miscellania: proven to work even in space (like charm) and broken down to you THE EASIEST WAY by your Belarusian bud & fellow modular synthesist who's way too anti-greedy to charge you $759.25 AUD for it (the initial worth-every-penny value of the enlightening IQ-booster tutorial system 9000 presented to you below in the form of OG Director's Cut XXL Deluxe Anniversary EDITION!).

To get a noteworthily fucking awesome T-shaped piece of wood that would sure enough attract girls (or female beavers, for beaver readers among us, long for “beavereaders” – Oxford Word of the Year 1975) and skyrocket your social ranking, you'll only need four things: hands (1, 2), X-shaped piece of wood lying nearby amidst defunct rat cages, spontaneously self-combusting underwear (an impulse buy), and family photo albums (3), and a saw (4). Make note: you cannot use a saw waveform for this, you need an actual phooken' saw that you can hand someone or be handed, or behead some body (sorry, somebody not “some body”: bodies don't have heads! :tu:) or be beheaded by or with help of or via.

Take an X-shaped piece of wood and rotate it CW by 45° (rotating by CCW is possible too, but yields worse results in our experience, confirmed by test groups and aspiring aspirin-allergic horse astrologists* – *horse astrologist is an astrologist providing prognosises for horses and horse-sized ponies, including but not excluding pony-sized horses and pony-sized ponzi scheme midget horse practitioners ). After this, cut off wooden promontory protuberance above the “T”, effectively turning an “X” into a “-T”.

Almost done now. Take the “-” and put aside to sort of “invert” the minus-T-shaped piece of, ahem, art, into the T-shaped piece you were so after.

Congra-fooken-tulations: you really did something meaningful today and rose above the mere “eat-and-shit” no-T-shaped-things-producing underage greenhorn layabouts that can only sweep-and-shoot tiktoks as well as overage kleptomaniac alcoholics whose sport master-grade hand tremors allow no equably straight and steady cuts for the life of them and whatsoever, as such only turning X-shaped wooden things (Xs) into more asymmetrically lopsided Xs as well as quality-reducing museum exhibit (do not confuse with: xzibit 8-))-grade ice axes all the way down into the “too-shoddy-for-a-slop-container” ice axe category, making them welcome in the museums under whichever circumstances since then absolutely not. :omg:

I hope this was helpful and enlightening.

:slapfight:
:mrgreen:⚡️
Damn you fuzzy eared down under person! :mad:
After following the instructions to a T, I may have sawed off more than I can achoo because now I seem to be left with nothing but an L

A goddamned L!
And my thumb! Where’s my thumb!?!? :omg:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

“Under person”....??? ROFLMAO :lol:

Good one, hah, and CONDOLENCES MY DOOD!!! :party: ;)

L-shaped ones are in better demand atm and average price sold for beats the T-shaped ones' by 19.7% (if it is any consolence! I hope the 19.7% buys you a new thumb just nice, maybe with some 0.1% “beer purchase” leftover, if you find a particularly good “used (or new old stock :mrgreen:) thumb” deal). :guinness:

I hope me pointing out you have a THRU-ELEVEN FM you may not have known you have on yer Rubicon makes up for your “eared-down bud induced” tragic loss of part of your body/hand part nice enough, Daniel!

PS. Try ILostMyThumbButEmbracedTheFact.com

NO :sarcasm: JUST PURE EMPATHY.

:bananallama:
Witness 60 minutes of audio-visual industrial psy-techno
jam-offering (and press like so this wipes away minecraft
videos clean from the trends and we get to see
some proper rave action there, FINALLY):

Image

/ My electro-rap debut!! (video)
/ Analog & modular videos
:smoke:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Cornell »

NEED A CLASSIC RING MODULATOR

Hello,
I am new here. I am not sure how to send announcements to the general membership, but here is what I fairly urgently need for a project (please forward it to the right place, if I’ve come to the wrong forum!):

I write what some people call ‘classical’ music, modern and often with electronics. Many years ago, most studios had very simple analogue ring modulators - Just two inputs and several outputs (for the through output, mixed/modulated sound, and some had the facility to have the modulated signal to be split into its components, such as the summation and the difference tones).

Is there anyone making and selling these now?
I am not interested in guitar pedals with ready made interesting additions.
I need to be able to control basic parameters myself.
Just two plain noises going through and a sound with the two resultants coming out.

I know, they cost very little to make, but I haven’t got a minute to spare to make one myself at the moment. Very serious deadline approaching! Help!
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by 1n »

Missing the point on purpose, although not entirely missing it:

Save time and money and get a looper
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by pieter »

Cornell wrote: Thu Dec 09, 2021 3:48 am NEED A CLASSIC RING MODULATOR

Hello,
I am new here. I am not sure how to send announcements to the general membership, but here is what I fairly urgently need for a project (please forward it to the right place, if I’ve come to the wrong forum!):

I write what some people call ‘classical’ music, modern and often with electronics. Many years ago, most studios had very simple analogue ring modulators - Just two inputs and several outputs (for the through output, mixed/modulated sound, and some had the facility to have the modulated signal to be split into its components, such as the summation and the difference tones).

Is there anyone making and selling these now?
I am not interested in guitar pedals with ready made interesting additions.
I need to be able to control basic parameters myself.
Just two plain noises going through and a sound with the two resultants coming out.

I know, they cost very little to make, but I haven’t got a minute to spare to make one myself at the moment. Very serious deadline approaching! Help!
If you want a simple ring modulator, Blinds will do a great job (although you get four at once, so maybe overkill). If you want the features highlighted in bold, it is quite difficult. Check out Sketchy Labs' Freak Shift for that: viewtopic.php?p=3657610
Not good if you have a deadline approaching, because there is a waiting list...
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Kosmikos »

Cornell wrote: Thu Dec 09, 2021 3:48 am NEED A CLASSIC RING MODULATOR

Hello,
I am new here. I am not sure how to send announcements to the general membership, but here is what I fairly urgently need for a project (please forward it to the right place, if I’ve come to the wrong forum!):

I write what some people call ‘classical’ music, modern and often with electronics. Many years ago, most studios had very simple analogue ring modulators - Just two inputs and several outputs (for the through output, mixed/modulated sound, and some had the facility to have the modulated signal to be split into its components, such as the summation and the difference tones).

Is there anyone making and selling these now?
I am not interested in guitar pedals with ready made interesting additions.
I need to be able to control basic parameters myself.
Just two plain noises going through and a sound with the two resultants coming out.

I know, they cost very little to make, but I haven’t got a minute to spare to make one myself at the moment. Very serious deadline approaching! Help!
You can make a ring mod with a bunch of VCA and rectifiers:
https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=93777
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radiokoala
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

I was beyond pleased to know at least two (if not all four!) takers of my all-things-modular Skype classes mentioned seeing this thread as the decisive factor. :headbang: :nana: :sb:

Now that we completely ran out of metalshow-attending whitecollar job-rejected when-applying-for (except badger. if he wears a suit, he is all kinds of portly and presentable wall street financial broker lookalike :smoke:) misfit emoticons, I wanted to get to another great announce: I decided to share some particularly cool ideas that come to my head as I am preparing for the classes. :goo: (BTW, note how Mr. Badger is the least drunk of three, showcasing the most impressive ability to hold a steady arm for hours. Some next level Bruce Lee-like physical form, let's all hope he is not stalkering Wolf Alice lead singer or does other uncommendable stuff to completely ruin our first impression of him!).

Okay, so this next “wild sequence mashup” idea comes from the task of being able to play guitar alongside modular and not have to distract on particularly protracted sequence or patch adjustments yet being able to get some good variety of it.

Alchemic Sequence Recipe: Remix, Crossbreed, Mash Up![Off the lesson #003]
Patch three sequences to (ideally attenuverting, for flipping them like envelopes from _-¯ to ¯-_) mixer. Mixer to quantizer for always staying true to your Bebop Dominant scale of choice, or quantizer to the waste bin (can be Craigslist if you are not as cruel by your nature) if you can't stay these nasty in-tune sequences. :sniper:

Up next, play with attenuverters for using this self-made centrepiece of a global sequencer control to: A) select sequences like with a 4-way A/B/C/Off switch; B) combine sequences into nearly infinite number of variations like A with a little bit of “bleed” from B or wild mathematical permutations like A+B-(C*0,5); C) flip sequences around for similar effect to alternating between Up and Down arpeggio play modes; D) scale (or amp) your sequences for turning steps into LEAPS and vice versa, as well as turning your 5V free jazz melodies into 1V bass riffs; E) everything of this combined, as well as beyond that, & more.

CV'able Counterpoints with RM or Bipolar VCAs
As somebody said in the thread linked, I do not know how to use ring mods, so of course as “that person” I have to stand to my title and prove my complete knowledgelessness (is this a word or again my C2 level wordmaking skills kicking in? :lol:) with a rm-centered patch I have never seen before, this is exactly what people who do not know something do!

Set the same patch as before with the same sequences into another 3:1 mixer to quantizer for being able to alternate between three possible sequences/melodies, being able to play intervals, unisons, and varied degree of counterpoints by using a pair of oscillators. (For occasional unison operations, be sure to set them both to the same root note and also that both mixers are not amplifying, so have perfect 1.0 gain with knobs fully CW. And, of course, getting the same response from both would be easier with simple mixes like A-C or B+C and not all knobs set wildly out of order like 5pm, 2am and such).

Now, since in the classic counterpoint we usually deal with two melodies that mirror one another, in its most basic form all we will have to do is patch +A (or +A+B, +A+B-C etc) to one VCO and -A (or -A-B, -A-B+C) to another. This, of course, is most easily accomplished with the attenuverting mixer control, but alternatively can be achieved e.g. by sending a sequence mix (or sequence copy, in simpler configuration) to ring mod input and using inverted envelope as RM CV. As such, by using e.g. SEQ1->Normal VCA (+EG as modulator) and SEQ2->RM with -EG, we can, for example: A) turn duophonic drones into insta-counterpointing melodies by sending 0 Attack, Full Sustain, 0 Release to CVs; B) be fading in more and more counterpoint by using slow attack ADSRs. As such, your sequences will be “squashed” at first, with note intervals like small second, minor third et al, and then reaching perfect fifths, ninths, multiple octaves or whatever, the idea I hope is clear: more Control Voltage to CV = more distance between the notes, with both VCAs (1 VCA, 1 RM) fully open to output original sequence and its fully mirrored copy.

Now you can righteously ask me: why the rm, bud? Just for simple inversion? “Nah,” – I will answer to you, – “It's all about the CV'able counterpoint there, my dood! By changing between - and + voltage at the RM CV, you are essentially turning counterpoint on and off. So, flipping those melodies completely upside down is a very Bach thing to do, and now you have remote control of that. Sending the periodic bipolar waves to RM CV like saw and square LFO will also yield cool results: from intervals to unison (at the peak voltage) to “run away from each other” motifs like _-¯ and ¯-_.

IMPORTANT! :goo: If you don't fancy the idea of ruining all your carefully hand-set and thoughtfully composed intervals by scaling/squashing sequences with VCAs, you can in fact do another, arguably, more interesting thing to control how far away in note distance your melodies are.

Take an offset voltage and send it to a mixer-1. Inverted copy to mixer-2. By adding the voltage you'll do stuff like ensuring your oscillators never meet in the same point, even if, for example, your sequence starts with (and contains) 0V steps. Without offset it will be unison at that points, whereas wider and wider initial intervals are possible with it. To give a simple example, we start with – and – as the root note with zero offset and get to – and _, and later on ¯ and _ distances as we add voltage.

Using bipolar VCAs like WMD Triple Bipolar VCA you can do it all all within it: just change the CV signal polarity with a knob without adding offset. It is conveniently a three-channel mixer, too, so nearly perfect module for the whole patch. Twist a knob and get your melody inversions on and off.

B.T.W. of course you can squash and offset your melodies at the same time!

Have fun!
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M01C
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by M01C »

I want(ed) to buy a Starlab. Instead I made this patch (details in description). Does that count as well?

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radiokoala
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Sounds beautiful, to be sure! Liked it a lot. :tu:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by M01C »

radiokoala wrote: Sun Dec 19, 2021 12:51 pm Sounds beautiful, to be sure! Liked it a lot. :tu:
Great!

But I still want to buy a Starlab :doh:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Kosmikos »

M01C wrote: Sun Dec 19, 2021 12:58 pm Great!

But I still want to buy a Starlab :doh:
It’s a trap!
Radiokoala is secretly working with the Eurorack manufacturers, getting us hooked on free modular goodies, then we realise that either we need more utilities, a much bigger case, or the actual real thing we wanted to buy in the first place… :twisted:

(Your patch sounds great btw!)
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by M01C »

Kosmikos wrote: Sun Dec 19, 2021 4:09 pm It’s a trap!
Radiokoala is secretly working with the Eurorack manufacturers, getting us hooked on free modular goodies, then we realise that either we need more utilities, a much bigger case, or the actual real thing we wanted to buy in the first place… :twisted:

(Your patch sounds great btw!)
Well, he certainly is good in what he's doing!

*Makes an appointment for the next Analogists Ananymous meeting*

(Thanks for the compliment!)
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

AND & NOR without Logic :foul:
Here is a way to patch two gates into a plain VCA to get a couple of cool functions like AND, NOR, sorta XOR and true XOR with extra OR.

AND function
Gate 1 (or any square) to VCA IN. Gate 2 / Sqr to VCA CV. This is the true AND: 0+0=0, 1+0=0, 0+1=0, and 1+1=1, where 1 is Gate High and 0 is, sure enough, zero volt output.

NOR function
Same as AND but (!) invert BOTH signals before patching to the VCA. This will be the true NOR: 0+0=1, 1+0 & 0+1 = 0, 1+1=0.

8-) Expert Tip! For the sole reason that we need nothing more than one AND function (that we already have) to get constant minimum value and one OR function for max, we can postpone our Doepfer A172 purchase for a while and accomplish it all with some simple maths. (Originally I invented this way of “extracting” MIN voltage thinking how I could do it with MN Maths module alone, that normally can only produce MAX via its OR out).

Without much extra details, if we just flip some mountain peak-looking wave like /¯\_/¯\, it will become \_/¯\_/ and what was its minimum will become its maximum, as we see. Hence, we can just invert it once more after sending to OR and get AND. Anyhow, since we already have AND and NOR, we won't do that, but we will get OR by inverting the NOR.

OR function
-NOR = OR, pretty simple. Just invert the VCA output after patching it to perform NOR operation.

OR into AND... and back!
As explained above, INVERT two signals going into e.g. Maths channels 2 & 3 and take output from OR (SUM) output. This is your inverted minimum. Invert it once more, there is your AND.

“Sorta” XOR
This is pretty weird and amusing all rules-breaking logical output operation: since the VCA state of fully closed is determined by only one (CV) signal, it is possible to get 1+0=0 with inverting one of the input signals but NEVER POSSIBLE to get 0+1=1 at the same times whereas for all logic types 0+1 and 1+0 produce the same 1 or 0, always. :D

As such, we will get the true XOR operation with both signals HIGH (1+1=0) and LOW (0+0=0) but will run into this bepuzzling phenomenon of 1+0=1 and 0+1=0 (or 1+0=0 and 0+1=1).

To patch the sorta XOR, simply invert either CV or Input signal. Just one of the two, else you'll get NOR (see above).

What sorta XOR is super cool for is ducking the gates, like you patch Gate A to e.g. bassline sequencer, and sorta XOR output of A+B to your kick drum trig in. (Gate B goes to VCA In, and Gate A to VCA CV in this example, VCA out to kick). Feel free to use with close and open hats, too, for pedal hi-hat emulation.

All Boolean Logic Types with VCAs and more inverters :goo:
NAND function
If A is 1, then NOT A is 0. What we normally know as an inverter is actually the “NOT A” logic function, so even if you think you have no logic modules in your rack, with 99% probability you do have at least one! :spin: Anyhow... if -X is NOTX (do not mistake for the punk band NOFX! :drums:) , then sure as hell -AND is NAND.

So just invert the AND for NAND. AND has 0 0 1 states (for both low, either of, and both high), and NAND just mirrors that with 1 1 0.

True XOR
For true XOR with output states of 0 1 0, producing 1 with both 1+0 and 0+1 (refer to the sorta XOR patch for more details), patch your synth up in the following manner:

Gate A to VCA In. -Gate B to VCA CV.
Gate B and VCA out to OR.

In simpler words, sorta XOR + CV Gate (Square) to OR. ORs are relatively easily found on many modular systems (Intellijel OR, Make Noise Mult, A172, Make Noise Maths, even 4ms PEG – sorta hammering the nails with the microscope, but, too, will get the job done :smoke:), and are super easy to DIY with few jacks and diodes. Alternatively, see the OR out of NOR (1 0 0 into 0 1 1) above: simply invert NOR.

XNOR :goo:
Invert XOR.

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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Meantime, I want to draw everybody's attention to the criminally overlooked thread: Xmas Gift: MI Stages (10+) Patchbook.

Spinoff brainchild of this legendary “Want? Don't”, that one is (no jokes!) what I think is the single best and most insightful & informative post I have written in 10+ years. Ten more patches all centered around one of the most popular Eurorack Modules, showing how to use it as a resonant equalizer, six independent bitcrushers, square-to-pwm converter and MINUS TWELVE OCTAVE suboscillator... what not to like!!! :cloud: :goo: :party:

PS. Patch 7.1 in there + VCA Logic above = easy AND and NOR with just 2 channels, plus 4 more for other fun (or more Boolean operations with extra inverters! :love:).

:drums:
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by radiokoala »

Bear in mind that for converting NOR to OR, AND to NAND, and XOR to XNOR, you should not just invert the VCA / logic state out but also offset it +5/8/10V (whatever gate voltage you feed it), else you'll get like -5 0 0 -5 that won't trigger anything. So “invert” in these particular three examples is “invert and offset”, this is crucial and necessary to take care of, else you'll be sad panda wondering why all your ADSRs suddenly stopped reacting. :D Thought I'd mention, as I overlooked the need of mentioning this as I was typing, but this is, in fact, super important.
Witness 60 minutes of audio-visual industrial psy-techno
jam-offering (and press like so this wipes away minecraft
videos clean from the trends and we get to see
some proper rave action there, FINALLY):

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/ My electro-rap debut!! (video)
/ Analog & modular videos
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Re: You want to buy a ____? Don't.

Post by Snufflepuff »

[/quote]


Here is this patch I did as an example (it's a module listed as Sputnik 258c on ModularGrid) and one more to show another type of (more soothing ambient) sound one may be looking for with specific modules like Plonk, Clouds, Rainmaker, Bell and others, but that is doable and by all means achievable with more edgier and raw-sounding analog oscillators like DWG (a.k.a. 258c, or Dual Waveform Generator) as well, oftentimes even without taming their inner “harsh” with LPFs or LPGs. Just for the fun of it: sounds in 2nd and 3rd (and 4th) embed are all the same oscillator! (Well, actually all four of them).









In the latest example one part of my Sputnik Dual was modded to have a separate TRI out, you can read more about it in this thread.

Wanna buy a (new something)..? Mod what you already have! :cloud: 😎
[/quote]

How did you tame the edgier VCOs without necessarily using LPFs or Gs? Thanks!
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